donderdag 19 februari 2015

Gender Blender - Menswear FW 2015

Givenchy
Let's Play Gender, Baby!

Since gender is the theme for the upcoming FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015 edition, I couldn't help but notice 'gender-play' during the latest mens wear fashion shows. From Paris, London, Amsterdam, Madrid and most recently New York Fashion Week it has been clear that designers are challenging the traditional gender roles.
It seems that in particular emancipation of men is blossoming and the position of men within the society is changing. While women are liberating them selves and becoming more independent they are demanding more from men.  There was the metrosexual, in recent years there is the spornosexual, lumberosexual and name it.
For the coming season designers have been clearly inspired to play with gender. We see the skirts again, leggings, female-like accessories, androgyn models, girly textiles, female models in mens clothing and so on.
Astrid Andersen plays with lace and sportswear and presents her clothing on masculine men. Gucci had the seventies vibe with girly looks and accessories. Givenchy 'FKA Twigs' a like men are wearing skirts over pants and Rick Owens literally put the spotlight on the penis, showing full-frontal male nudity.

Is this just another hype, that will somehow make its way to the streets? Or is this a long term trend that will contribute gender equality. Will the skirt finally make its way to high street stores, several brands have reintroduced the skirt for FW 2015 season. Whatever this may mean or where it comes from I am very pleased to notice this evolution. We should celebrate the diversity and freedom to express who ever we want to be, and not to forget engage ourselves in the social debate to help those who are not enjoying the freedom to do so.

The theme of this years FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015 is “Gender, celebration of diversity and self-expression”. The theme will be expressed throughout the festival programme, namely the exhibition and performances. To be continued - www.fashionclash.nl

I have made a broad selection from several fashion week with a variety of examples how designer are playing with gender in their FW 2015 collections.

Another interesting Dazed Digital article: This season in New York, a community of designers and models broke fashion week’s glass ceiling – they tell us why it’s about representation, not tokenism

HOMME VAN LAB

Gucci

Givenchy

Dries van Noten

Gucci

Gucci

Gucci

Giorgio Armani

Comme des Garçons

Thom Browne

Thom Browne

Todd Lynn

Rick Owens

Teflar

David Catalan

Lanvin

Lee Roach

Maison Martin Margiela

Maison the Faux

Manuel Bolaño

Hood By Air

J.W Anderson

J.W Anderson

Kit Neale

Astrid Andersen

Baja East

Bas Kosters

Christopher Shannon

Davidelfin

Davidelfin

Krizia Robustella

Krizia Robustella

Jenevieve Lyons

Joshua Kane

Julius

Saint Laurent

Sibling

Vivienne Westwood

Walter van Beirendonck

Xavi Reyes

Yohji Yamamoto

VEKTOR


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