maandag 23 februari 2015
SWEN - Menswear
SWEN is a London-based menswear label established in 2014 by Swann Amdeo & Steven Jacques, two young French designers who met in Paris before moving to London.
Swann graduated in Fashion Design from Parisian school LISAA - L’Institut Supérieur des Arts Appliqués – in 2012. Steven started studying Fashion Management at Mod’Art International and graduated in 2014 from LCF – London College of Fashion.
Swann places the emotion at the center of his work where contradictory elements meet and give birth to lines combining volume, suppleness and graphic richness. From Steven exudes an eclectic universe nourished by his love of urban scenes and multicultural popular silhouettes.
SWEN is the result of this aesthetical convergence.
The AW15 collection expresses the evolution of a man in a group. Friend, brother or lover, he gives and learns from the other, from them. They all support each other, complete ech other and sometimes clash. Protecting itself is essential because their links are fragile. Finally, one gives up, let go and open up to the other. They become stronger.
A singular energy emerges from their exchanges leaving marks that clothes are here witnessing.
Thus, the low sleeves appear as the mark of support, the mark you leave one someone. Turtlenecks embody protection of identity and from the influence of the other.
The volume of the oversized pants reflects the imposing place that weaknesses can take, preventing from any change and its high- waist tells how retained you can end up. The stiffness of the fabric refers to the intransigence of a decision, either its own or not, that is sometimes hard to leave behind. The proportions are exaggerated, just like feelings. The organic flannel jumpsuit embodies gentle- ness, integral protection. It allows you to feel safe and warm.
The jerseys demonstrate the malleability, the adaptation to another. This malleability is found on certain cuts, on the green jumper for instance, where the lines come to die forward. The rib organic cotton basics show the thinness from the borders of the outside while showing through a part of oneself. Their fits gives an impression of a second skin, the rib reminds notches that allow the grip, the attachement to another.
This collection also questions identity, the image you give of yourself that defines you, or in which you remain locked. The padded pieces take the appearance of an armor, it protects and modifies the silhouette disproportionately. The nylon, borrowed from sports- wear, contains the notion of effort, confrontation.
The woolen coat, major piece of this collection, brings together the two themes by confronting them. The zip allows you to adjust the length and refers to the different sel-images you choose to show. Thanks to it, you free yourself from a weight or you choose to live with it.
It also shows reinforcements on the back that could be considered as a shell. In fact, they are a cuddle-pocket. This shell is penetrable, and allows union, protection of the other, manifestation of love. This is the ultimate expression of their identity.
Photography Campbell Addy