Hood By Air S/S 2017

Shayne Oliver presented the Spring/Summer 2017 collection for Hood By Air during New York Fashion Week.

https://www.hoodbyair.com

Jamaican porn stars models for Hood by Air

PH & HBA 
Shayne Olivier’s latest project is a cooperation with South African photographer Pieter Hugo, capturing the latest Hood by Air collection on Jamaican porn stars. The arresting images are also the subject of a new book.
Pieter Hugo got in the picture with his magnificent images of African communities, ranging from Nigerian gangs walking their pet hyenas to Liberian scouts, via judges in Botswana. For Hood by Air, he captured Jamaican porn stars from Kingston’s Gully Queen gay community, a group of men who ostracized by the patriarchal society in the country, who now live together near a storm drain in the city’s slum district. Sex workers, porn actor and transsexuals all wear Hood by Air in PH & HBA, a poignant and transgressive book available now.

Fetishism - Menswear FW2015

Boris Bidjan Saberi

Moba edition for Arnhem Mode Biennale in 2013 was curated by Lidewij Edelkoort around the theme of Fetishism in Fashion. Iconic item chosen to express this concept was the apron, showing that there is more to fetishism than just bondage.
Edelkoort made aprons one of the edition’s most prominent items of clothing. ‘‘It symbolizes subservience and the open back makes aprons one of the most fetishistic items of clothing”.

Two years later the concept of 'Fetishism in Fashion' is present in various fashion collections. Next to the skirts, nudity and 'gender-play', aprons where literally featured in some menswear collections.

Furry Fluffy Feathery

Sibling

Furry Fluffy Feathery - Menswear fashion trend for fall winter 2015/2016

If the fashion designers could predict the weather then there is a cold winter to come. If we look at the collections presented for fall winter 2015/16 one could conclude that we will face a cold winter. Nothing to be depressed about considering the variety of thick and furry looks designers sent down the runway. Many menswear collections featured luxurious and hairy materials, playful 'glam-rock' looks, fur patchwork, plush, fringes, wool and so on. One must-have item for the coming winter is scarf, the bigger the better.

Here is a short selection of looks representing the 'furry-trend'.

Gender Blender - Menswear FW 2015

Givenchy

Let's Play Gender, Baby!

Since gender is the theme for the upcoming FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015 edition, I couldn't help but notice 'gender-play' during the latest mens wear fashion shows. From Paris, London, Amsterdam, Madrid and most recently New York Fashion Week it has been clear that designers are challenging the traditional gender roles.
It seems that in particular emancipation of men is blossoming and the position of men within the society is changing. While women are liberating them selves and becoming more independent they are demanding more from men.  There was the metrosexual, in recent years there is the spornosexual, lumberosexual and name it.
For the coming season designers have been clearly inspired to play with gender. We see the skirts again, leggings, female-like accessories, androgyn models, girly textiles, female models in mens clothing and so on.
Astrid Andersen plays with lace and sportswear and presents her clothing on masculine men. Gucci had the seventies vibe with girly looks and accessories. Givenchy 'FKA Twigs' a like men are wearing skirts over pants and Rick Owens literally put the spotlight on the penis, showing full-frontal male nudity.

Is this just another hype, that will somehow make its way to the streets? Or is this a long term trend that will contribute gender equality. Will the skirt finally make its way to high street stores, several brands have reintroduced the skirt for FW 2015 season. Whatever this may mean or where it comes from I am very pleased to notice this evolution. We should celebrate the diversity and freedom to express who ever we want to be, and not to forget engage ourselves in the social debate to help those who are not enjoying the freedom to do so.

The theme of this years FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015 is “Gender, celebration of diversity and self-expression”. The theme will be expressed throughout the festival programme, namely the exhibition and performances. To be continued - www.fashionclash.nl

I have made a broad selection from several fashion week with a variety of examples how designer are playing with gender in their FW 2015 collections.

Another interesting Dazed Digital article: This season in New York, a community of designers and models broke fashion week’s glass ceiling – they tell us why it’s about representation, not tokenism

Ai WeiWei x Dover Street Market x V Magazine

Ai WeiWei x Dover Street Market x V MAGAZINE 

"Children of the Comme"  

For the new issue of V magazine, Chinese artist Ai Weiwei subjected an array of Dover Street Market's emerging designer pieces to an onslaught of colorful paint, then photographed the results. The participants included Ganryu, Noir Kei Ninomiya, 1205, Craig Green, Gosha Rubchinskiy, Hood By Air, Jacquemus, KTZ, Lee Roach, Melitta Baumeister, Phoebe English, Proper Gang, Shaun Samson and Sibling.

Photography: Ai Wei Wei/Courtesy of V Magazine

Paint-splattered mannequins lined up on the staircase of Dover Street Market, forming an exhibition of garments by emerging designers floor that were turned into installation art by the Chinese activist-artist Ai Wei Wei.

Hood By Air SS 2015

Shane Oliver’s Hood By Air presents their Spring/Summer 2015 collection at New York Fashion Week.


http://www.hoodbyair.com