Lichting 2018

Ferry Schiffelers

On Friday 7 September, AMFI [Amsterdam Fashion Institute Amsterdam] graduate Ferry Schiffelers won Lichting 2018, the prize for upcoming fashion talent. In a catwalk show, in the middle of Museumplein in Amsterdam, 14 fashion graduates presented their graduation collections to national and international fashion professionals. Although all 14 designers showed promising proposals, the jury panel chose Ferry Schiffelers, the most promising talent in the Netherlands. He won the Lichting 2018 Award worth € 10,000, made available by the Meester Koetsier Foundation.

With his Défilé De Deuil collection Ferry combines his fascination for rituals around funerals and his great love for feminine beauty. By linking this vision to Victorian mourning portraits, in which widows were portrayed in extremely elaborate mourning dresses, he created a modern group portrait in which different generations of women show the power of femininity.

The winner of the Lichting 2018 Award was chosen by a renowned international panel consisting of Alvise Bullo [Junior Research Manager Creative Talents LVMH Fashion Group], Christopher New [Course Leader BA Fashion Menswear and Fashion Program Academic Quality Coordinator Central Saint Martins], Filep Motwary [Independent curator and author, photographer, fashion features editor Dapper Dan Magazine], Gry Nissen [Creative Director].

The 14 finalists of Lichting 2018 are: Berend Brus, Pia Walter, Nathan Klein, Jasmijn Taken, Timothy Scholten, Yuki Ito, Sonia Oet & Line Arngaard, Yaroslav Glazunov, Jessica van Halteren, Rena Jansen, Nina Pen, Maria van Steenoven, Mathieu Jonker.

Lichting is an initiative of HTNK and Amsterdam Fashion Week. Lichting was launched in 2007 and each year the best graduate collection of the country gets awarded. Each school out of seven Dutch fashion academies sends out two graduates, who get to show selection of five outfits on the runway during Amsterdam Fashion Week. Prior to the show, they have to present and defend their work in front of an international jury. 

More information: www.lichting.nl

KABK The Hague Fashion Show 2017

Roos Boshart

The Fashion & Textile department of the Royal Academy of Art in The Hague held their annual Fashion show on Saturday June 17.
The class of 2017 is a rather small class of four graduates, however all four profiled themselves in their own authentic way.

Roos Boshart presented the collection 'I am a slave of your perception, you are a slave of mine'. With this collection she explored the interaction between the body, the self and the other. 'By taking iconic and recognizable fashion pieces, which I presentwithout any context, I show the pure core of clothing in relation to the body.
Questions I investigated were, amongst others, how do we perceive each other and how can we influence this? How does fashion play a role in how we see ‘the other’?

Rachael Cheong presented an intruiging proposal titled 'We Know What You Are Hiding',  a collection that is build around the idea of dolls as the keeper of secrets. 'They sit in your room, watch everything you do, know what you mutter in your sleep and know your deepest, darkest secrets. Taking my obsession with dolls to another level, the body of a doll is seen as a surrogate body onto which we project ourselves.'

Thalojna Slui
'Out of Touch is based on schizophrenia and the sense of losing reality. Also, I got intrigued by Jean Dubuffet and Outsiders Art, and used that as inspiration to create my own installation. I hope to convey a message that although you might be suffering from a mental illness, the world you experience is still complete. It’s all a matter of perspective.'

Veronika Konvickova showed a romantic womenswear collection 'Silent Wonderlust' inspired by the relationship between silence and sound. 'It involves the search to escape the constant motion of a busy life and never-ending noise. I would like to inspire people to seek more silence in their life and surroundings, to slow down and take more time to reconnect with their inner self'.

In addition to the graduates the show also featured experiments by first year, ethnical and historical costumes. The stand-outs in the 2nd year where Lina Lau, Trumaine Huijts and Vincent Wong and the in the 3rd year students promising proposals where displayed by Laura Snijders, Nina Dekker, Yuki Ito and Nina Dekker.
Next to the shows there was an exhibition 'Exposed' where also the textiles students such as Joana Schneider and Min Gweon presented their work.

Take a look at the show highlights below
All images by brankopopovicblog

Das Leben am Haverkamp

Gino Anthonisse

Das Leben am Haverkamp, a collective of four fashion designers is currently one of the most exciting (fashion related) initiatives in the Netherlands. With their strong presentations, innovative designs and performative presentations they managed to create a relevant buzz in the scene.

Anouk van Klaveren (1991), Christa van der Meer (1988), Dewi Bekker (1990) and Gino Anthonisse (1988) – joined forces and formed the collective Das Leben am Haverkamp after graduating from the Royal Academy of Art, The Hague. Their unconventional approach to design and fashion results in thought-provoking, unpolished work, often inspired by alter egos, boyhood and floral curtains. New, uncharted territory is explored during the inventive performances and presentations of Das Leben am Haverkamp. All the members have their individual label, and present it collectively.

http://www.daslebenamhaverkamp.com

* images by brankopopovicblog, at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Amsterdam

KABK Fashion Show 2016

Woody 's-Gravemade

The Fashion Show 2016 at Royal Academy of Fine Art The Hague (KABK)
In recent years the KABK has delivered multiple talented designers, such as Bastian Visch, Marije de Haan and Nikki Duijst who all won the prestigious Lichting Award.
Under leadership by the avant-garde designer Jurgi Persoons, the fashion and textile department of the KABK has become the show to scout talents. What stands out the KABK is the expressive approach not only with design and material but also with narrative. 
Perfect example is the graduate Woody 's-Gravemade who made a poetic statement with his collection 'Dutch' Culture. In his collection he mixed Western and Middle Eastern culture, exploring the culture clash by blending street wear with islamic garments such as the burqa and niqab with typical Western garments such as shinny wadded jacket. Returning in the collection is the 'Turkentas', Dutch word for the cheap plastic bags mostly related to the stereotypical image of migrants.

Woody 's-Gravemade

Woody 's-Gravemade

KABK Fashion Show 2015

Merel Bos

The Royal Academy of Arts The Hague (KABK) Fashion Show 2015

In past few years KABK has delivered multiple talented designers, such as Bastian Visch and Marije de Haan who won the Lichting award. Since 2013, avant-garde designer Jurgi Persoons leads the fashion and textile department, and considering the 2015 fashion show it is evident that KABK fashion department remains a relevant breeding place for aspiring designers.
The course curriculum has similiar structure as the Antwerp Fashion department. The fashion show started with 1st years experimental dresseswhere talents like Inge Vaandering emerge. 
Following the 2nd years historical costumes inspired looks and 3rd years ethnical inspired collections.
All together a display of potential in particular with the menswear collections, but also designers Jenske Sypkens Smit and Jade Van der Mark impressed with their collections (see images below).
Although always fascinating to see the visions of the creative minds of the future, it is the graduates who trigger the most. This year nine students presented their collections. Fabian Bredt opened the show with a strong presentation with more than 20 outfits, conceptual but yet a nice ready-to-wear menswear collection. Ruby de Bruijn presented a beautiful all white collection with beautiful details while Merel Bos blew away with her exotic collection 'Isolated collective Uniqueness'.  Nikki Duijst closed the show with impressive well-tailored and composed collection. Oliver Jehee's proposed a rebellious, Westwood-kinda vibe while Bram Vervoort showed promising menswear collection with commercial potential. Among the graduates there where also collections by designers Anne Oomen, Nienke Smeulders and Marlies van Stolk.

Impressions and highlights from the KABK 2015 Fashion Show
All images by brankopopovicblog

Sympathy for the Devil at Marije de Haan show

When retrieving the press card I got a necklace with a key, like all the other guests of course.  In the room it was clear that there were keys everywhere on the catwalk and that if you walked through the keys made a sound. The tension was built up several minutes before the first model appeared with a cute outfit but at the same time with an evil look in his eyes. The mood was set, one by one the models were coming out and like always Marije de Haan gave a great show.
Ever wondered how Lucifer would look like if he was a man of flesh and blood? If we are to believe Mick Jagger (Sympathy for the devil) he is a 'man of wealth and taste'. How charming and dark at the same time can one be to be able to seduce people to join the devil? Marije de Haan created her new collection based on this questions. And this goes in line of her previous collections inspired by the dark and edgy side of the society. The collection contains Marije's signature marks such as head coverings, beige, white and black colours and striking models. "My muse for this collection has a cute, naughty, dangerous head." At the same time it is clear to see the growth in her designs. In this collection there are few wearable looks and as a contrast few strong theatrical silhouettes. Marije de Haan collaborated with HUB footwear for this show.
Marije de Haan is one of the six emerging designers from The Hague that is showing at Amsterdam Fashion Week this season. She graduated from the Royal Academy of Arts in The Hague in 2010 and in the same year she was selected for Lichting 2010 during Amsterdam Fashion Week and within this show she won the G-Star Raw Talent Award.
http://marijedehaan.com/

Tessa Wagenvoort debut at Amsterdam Fashion Week

'As the Crow Flies'

The Hague based designer, Tessa Wagenvoort debuted at Amsterdam Fashion Week with a very strong collection.
I know her work through FASHIONCLASH. She has showed her collection at 'FASHIONCLASH Maastricht 2011' and last year she had a joined installation 'Modedragers' with Annemarije van Harten and Lidewij Cortiaans.
She uses travel pictures as a starting point to create unique prints for her collections. The collection that she presented at AFW was about prints, even in the shoes, and Tessa 's prints are beautiful. The overall blue and feminine collection was very outspoken and more mature. She presented several showpieces with oversized-draped coats and long dresses but the collection also contains wearable pieces.  The collection entitled 'As the Crow Flies' is about freedom and seclusion, discovering, it is an emotional expression of her travel experience. With this beautiful presentation she is flying into the right direction with her label.

Tessa Wagenvoort graduated from KABK in 2010 and since than she is building up her label. She is based in The Hague and is one of the six 'The Hague' based designers who are showing at Amsterdam Fashion Week this week.

http://www.tessawagenvoort.com/

Sara Vrugt at FASHIONCLASH Maastricht 2012

Look at you 05

I have been familiar with the work of Sara Vrugt since few years and I am a fan so I was really thrilled that her work was a mayor part of the FASHIONCLASH Maastricht 2012 exhibition. Sara Vrugt is based in The Hague, where she also studied at the KABK, Royal Academy of Fine Arts.
She exhibited three projects so it was like a mini Studio vruGt expo.

http://www.vrugt.com

Lonneke van der Palen

Last summer one of my dearest friends, Lonneke van der Palen, graduated from KABK (Royal Academy of Arts in The Hague).
Lonneke is a very promising photographer. With her graduation project Lonneke shares with us memories of a journey she never made. During this grey autumn days it is even a greater pleasure to look at this work. Im very sure we will be hearing a lot more from her soon.

At KABK graduation expo last summer

More work is presented on her website: www.lonnekevanderpalen.com 

Lotte Mostert

Take a look at the work of Lotte Mostert.
She was one of the participants at FASHIONCLASH Maastricht 2010. This summer she graduated from KABK with a very beautiful collection. She was one of the selected designers for Lichting 2011.
More about Lotte Mostert: http://www.lottemostert.com/

'That makes the inside cover' concept

Quiet yet striking they walk the streets; Jewish men in classic long black coats, hats, long beards and ringlets covering their ears. Out of reach though exuding authority.

Many religions can be identified from recognizable elements in people’s appearances that hide the individual identity. This protection of individual identities creates a distance that triggers my curiosity for the person behind this image. My collection embodies my vision on these hidden identities.

Clean and sober silhouettes refer to known silhouettes in Judaism. An extensive research on Jewish praying materials and ethnic fabrics resulted in a fabric range that I designed and developed myself. Hand woven and hand knitted woolens in various qualities with ethnic patterns express simplicity and personality.

Lichting 2011 at AIFW
pictures by Branko Popovic

KABK Graduation 2011

Report from Graduation exhibition of KABK, Royal Academy of Art in The Hague
FASHION & TEXTILE

Lotte Mostert

with beautuful pictures by Lonneke van der Palen



Nicolaas Hein




Geo Timmerman




Esther Boskaljon


Jolien van Schagen



with beautuful pictures by Lonneke van der Palen



Marjolijn Damhuis


PHOTOGRAPHY


Mo Schalkx 'We found this place'


Netta Tauber 'You are here'


Rein Janssen 'Zwart Suiker'








Lonneke van der Palen 'Souvenir'








Guus Kaandorp 'I am not young enough to know everything'








Yerry Ydema

Marije de Haan 'Flatliners 2.0'

At the AIFW (Amsterdam Fashion Week), several rising talents showed their collections including Marije de Haan.
Marije de Haan graduated last year from KABK (Royal Academy of Arts in The Hague) and her graduation collection won the Lichting 2010. Since than she has made a big step into a right direction. I'm looking forward for more!

Her new collection 'Flatliners 2.0' is a follow up to the graduation collection 'Flatliners'.

'Flatliners' at AIFW, Lichting 2010 show, on July 15th 2010.


http://www.marijedehaan.com/


Backstage images from Marije de Haan at AIFW by Lonneke van der Palen!











If you have not been able to see the show at AIFW than you can go to The Hague for the aftershow expo at HOOP.

'HOOP' Den Haag
Grote Markt 10-13
The Hague / Den Haag
http://hoop.nu/


Previous posts incl. Marije de Haan:
http://brankopopovic.blogspot.com/2010/07/lichting-2010.html

http://brankopopovic.blogspot.com/2010/10/modebelofte-2010.html