Kolovrat - ModaLisboa N.50

KOLOVRAT Fall/Winter 18/19 'SHAPE SHIFT'

SHAPE SHIFT
"I will tell you a story.
Unexpected and unfitting.
As you feel nostalgic.
I will reset your reality.
I will shape your mood.
I’ll tell you a story as if it were yours" 

www.lidijakolovrat.com

KOLOVRAT - ModaLisboa Luz SS2018

KOLOVRAT - RITUAL - SS 2018

RITUAL

The primordial: a time when the ancestors channeled messages from the Gods ...

Ritual ... Presenting something that came embedded from an old primordial society talking to a new one. ..., while jumping and influencing the future, in terms of forming new ideas about losing patterns that are part of our social system.

In primitive societies, language and rituals would express their relationship with God and life, modern society became very casual, smart and practical. Facing this, maybe we need a new identity to theatricalize our lives and bring meaning into the picture.
Kolovrat continues to rely on deconstruction, mixing different styles and materials, creating a code that classifies who you are, what culture you love, which tribe you belong to. Asymmetrical and oversized outerwear has been constructed from two garments joined together and looped over one another. Coats opening in the back, with various proportions, also present in the hairstyles. The way the show will be presented will be a different kind of reality show, embracing all types of people, absurd and surrealistic spirit.

Kolovrat’s SS18 collection invokes ancient ritual practices to disrupt the modern and the rational, embracing vulnerability, enchantment and shape-shifting ...

http://www.lidijakolovrat.com

Kolovrat - ModaLisboa BOUNDLESS

With her latest collection for FW 2017/18, Lidija Kolovrat drew inspiration in South America, in particular the Andean culture.
Lidija Kolovrat was born in 1962 in Zenica, Bosnia and Herzegovina. She studied cinema and fashion at the Design and Technology College in Zagreb, Croatia. In 1990 she moved to Portugal where she is recognised as a prominent artist and regularly shows video art and installations in galleries and museums.
Her extensive body of work includes costume design for the theatre, opera and contemporary dance among other performing arts. In her interdisciplinary research work and involvement with design, Lidija opened Kolovrat Lab, an art space that was to operate for 15 years as a platform for het to develop her own work in fashion, which is presented by ModaLisboa during the Lisbon Fashion Week.
Lidija has also applied her skills to teaching, workshops and master degree programmes within the Lab and its wide range of activities.
In 2010, after a brief interval outside Portugal and the resulting closures of Kolovrat Lab, Lisbon saw her return and the start of Kolovrat 79. This multi-functional space where art and design can grow exponentially in an upstairs Lab and a street-level gallery.

www.lidijakolovrat.com

Kolovrat SS 2017 - ModaLisboa

Lidija Kolovrat presented her spring summer collection 'Fear or Love' during ModaLisoa Together editioin. In line with previous collections where she mixed menswear and womenswear, Kolovrat seems to have found a way with strong menswear proposals.
The collection 'Fear or Love' contained is a nicely balanced narrative of conrasts and textures. As stated by the designer 'Fear or Love' is inspired by the duality as a choice or opportunity, both industrial and romantic, femininity in interaction with masculinity.

http://www.lidijakolovrat.com

All images by Brankopopovicblog.

Kolovrat AW 2016 at ModaLisboa - Lisboa Fashion Week

Designer Lidija Kolovrat presnented Autumn/Winter 2016 during ModaLisboa - Lisboa Fashion Week KISS edition.
Staged at Marinha Portuguesa, perhaps the most fresh venues this season, Kolovrat collection was all about storng length and lines. The silhouettes are accompanied with beautiful color palet playing the perfect game with the gym ambience.

http://lidijakolovrat.com

From Lisboa With Love

AWAYTOMARS

ModaLisboa – Lisboa Fashion Week KISS Edition
AW 2016
Serving as a symbolic celebration for the 25th year anniversary ModaLisboa – Lisboa Fashion Week held the KISS edition from 10 to 13 of March. The KISS stand for timeless values of the seductive world of fashion, referring tot the art of giving and sharing. ModaLisboa looked back to its 25 years of heritage with an extensive program with 5 locations with more than 20 catwalk shows, exhibitions, fashion talks and parties.
KISS is as gentle as the impressive backdrop of the city of Lisboa that has become a returning stop over in my own schedule twice a year.
For AW 2016 Portuguese designers are proposing warm colors, textures and materials. Unlike its Mediterranean lifestyle and climate, the Portuguese designers seemed prepared for a cold winter. Furry and woolen materials where on display in many collections. It looks like the winter to come is going to be cosy and loveable.
Let’s kiss and wear Alexandra Moura, Ricardo Andrez, Luis Carvalho, Nair Xavier, Kolovrat, AWAYTOMARS. Just to name a few highlights. Plenty to choose from from the established names AW 2016.
Or what about the new blood? Sangue Novo, platform for emerging designers gave stage to nine talented designers. David Catalán won FASHIONCLASH Festival participation, he will join Tania Nicole who was winner of the October edition. Patrick de Padua proved he is ready for the next step; his price is a LAB show where he will get the opportunity to show a bigger collection.

Congratulations, ModaLisboa – Lisboa Fashion Week!

Highlights from ModaLisboa-Lisboa Fashion Week KISS edition

Portuguese Shoes exhibition

Kolovrat SS 2016 - ModaLisboa

http://www.lidijakolovrat.org

Highlights of ModaLisboa THE TIMERS - SS2016

Nuno Gama

ModaLisboa - The Timers SS 2016, October 10 - 12

ModaLisboa has become a returning appointment in my annual calander. It is never a punishment to fly to visit the beautiful city of Lisbon for an intense weekend. Besides the chance to see my dear fashion friends again this visit gives me the perspective to follow the development of the scheduled designers from a broader point of view. What is nice at ModaLisboa is that there is a constancy in the programming and they provide a platform for emerging talents and help them move on.

Looking back to the three day Lisboa Fashion Week, a programme with 29 nine designers on display it can be concluded that baby blue, white, black and bright red dominated the color palette for spring summer 2016.
When it comes to fabrics, Portuguese designers seem to love working with mesh materials. It aslo seems as that the proposals for menswear are offering a much more creative vision for next season than the womenswear. Prominent designers that rose to occasion with their collections where Alexandra Moura, Nair Xavier, Kolovrat, Ricardo Andrez, Aleksandar Protic and Nuno Gama.

On Friday evening, ModaLisboa "The Timers" SS2016 edition opened with the Sangue Novo (New Blood) collective show where featuring a selection of nine young Portuguese designers. Completing the list is Carlotaoms from Spain, selected to represent FASHIONCLASH Festival. Sara Santos won the DOMUS Academy scholarship and Tânia Nicole has been chosen to represent ModaLisboa during the next edition of FASHIONCLASH Festival in Maastricht (June 30 - July 3). Sangue Novo show contained other promising names such as Inês Duvale, Patrick de Padua, Cristina Real, David Catalan and Banda. -> see more about sangue novo

Sangue Novo exhibtion

The first night of ModaLisboa continued with the LAB shows of Away to Mars and Catarina Oliveira in the beautiful city hall 'Praça do Município'. Both very light and fresh proposals. Carlos Gil closed the evening with a very feminine but sharply tailored collection.

Olga Noronha

The theme is a reflection of the political state of mind in Portugal, where the conservative party gained most votes. Considering the fact that not many people actually voted the camp that is longing for change was left in disappointment. The theme for this edition “The Timers,” calls on fashion creatives to be the game changers and transformers of our time. The theme was mostly reflected throughout the programme's visual signing and the campaign. The Portuguese fashion designers do not seem to be political in their work. I do not want to advocate that fashion needs to be political, however sometimes I longed for more content or otherwise to be blown away by beauty and innovative ideas.
Having said that the Saturday programme could not have had a better start, with Nair Xavier's menswear collection. Solid in many ways Nair presented a cohesive collection for the contemporary men.
Next was Olga Noronha's presentation titled 'Hair | Lucination', a collection that emphasizes the lack and loss of hair, due to Alopecia and chemotherapy secondary effects. For this project she was partially sponsored by Reebok. The footwear Olga Noronha x Reebok was auctioned during and after the show, all raised money will be donated to IPO (Portuguese Onocology Institute).

Luís Carvalho and Fernando Cabral, one of my favorite models at ModaLisboa

Ricardo Andrez expressed the the concept of  transparency throughout the whole collection, offering interesting ideas for spring summer 2016.
Whether a transparent plastic overcoat, crop top or mesh fabrics, he plays with proportions but also plays with garments function to cover a person or show the person underneath.
"Some people are characterized as being 'transparent' to the extent that we believe we 'see through' them." 
Little bit confusing in the line up was the usage of the white mesh fabric with large holes, a very fashionable bespoke fabric but already seen in other collections such as in Alexandra Moura's collection in previous edition.

Mixed up with ups and downs of day 2 Alexandra Moura's closing show lifted up the spirits again with her another outstanding collection. -> see more
Although intense, the Sunday started with the sad feeling of a near departure. Therefore perfect to start the day with  Nuno Gama. It seems like he is the hardest working man in Portuguese fashion scene, staging a real show he takes his audience seriously and actually gives a show. Taking Portuguese heritage as the returning source of inspiration, he took us to a journey around the world from Asia to Africa. He presented a collection with many looks that could have easily been spread through several seasons to come. The collection, divided in four parts, told a story of Portuguese colonial heritage.

One of the surprises of the The Timers edition was Kolovrat, who sometimes can be all over the place with mixing to many ideas. For spring summer 2016 she unveiled a more mature, coherent collection but still very creative in the way Kolovrat's signature to experiment with tailoring.
Representing FashionPhilosophy Fashion Week Poland this edition was the menswear designer Piotr Drzal, who presented a very wearable collection. Maybe too accessible but be distinctive, but I can imagine mainstream men would go for it.

One designer that did not disappoint women is Serbian born Aleksandar Protic. He knows how to design for contemporary women while staying through to his signature. For 2016 he proposed long draped dresses with flowing material, fluid lines and wet look (expressed also in hairstyling).
For the last show the audience had to move to an other location, the São Luiz Teatro Municipal.
One of the most conceptual designers of Modalisboa, Dino Alvez staged a fashion presentation on the big theatre stage. The long delay and high expectations due to the venue where not fully answered. In a way maybe overshadowing the fact that the menswear was actually good and that some dresses where very well draped. The creative process of a fashion designer involves drawing out a concept, looking at it from afar, then scribbling it out in dissatisfaction, and crumpling the paper before throwing it in the trash. Sometimes, the mere act of scribbling and crumpling are forms of art themselves. That is the concept behind Dino Alves’ collection for spring summer 2016.

Dino Alvez, presentation in theatre

Additional programme
Next to the runway show the schedule contained Wonder Room designer showrooms and presentation of Portuguese shoe design. The shoes installation by APICCAPS was dedicated to exhibit the creativity of national talent, showing a selection of footwear designs of Portuguese designers for the ss2016 season. The exhibition displayed innovative partnerships between designers and footwear industry.
Following partnershisps where presented: Alexandra Moura x Goldmud, Dino Alves x J Reinaldo, Lidija Kolovrat x Eureka, Miguel Vieira x Evereste, Nuno Gama x Eureka, Pedro Pedro x Basilius, Ricardo Preto x Clay’s, Say My Name X Xperimental Shoes and Valentim Quaresma x Fly London, Nair Xavier x Couros e Peles and Banda x Nelson Oliveira Footwear.

The Portuguese footwear industry exports over 95% of its production to 150 countries on five continents, the equivalent of 75 million pairs of shoes, worthing 1 800 million euros (in 2013 the industry reached an exports record high, going up 8% over the previous year).

HIGHLIGHTS OF MODALISBOA 'THE TIMERS' SS 2016 
if not mentioned otherwise all images are by brankopopovicblog

Kolovrat - ModaLisboa Curiouser

When it comes to designer Lidija Kolovrat, it is clear to see her love for design and conceptual approach to fashion. Her collections never really a full balanced collection, but rather an eclectic mixtures of ideas and interventions. Partly this effort results in innovative clothing design and desirable must-have pieces, on the other hand there are looks I just don't know where to place. Her shows are therefore always full of surprises, such was the case in her latest show during the ModaLisboa Curiouser edition.

http://www.lidijakolovrat.org