Marko Feher - YUGOSLAVIA

Marko Feher, a promising fashion designer from Bosnia and Herzegovina who currently studies at Central Saint Martins, presented his new collection 'YUGOSLAVIA / ЈУГОСЛАВИЈА.

In recent years we see a true revival and revaluation for architecture from former Yugoslavia.
At MoMA there is currently a whole exhibition going on about this subject named 'Toward a Concrete Utopia: Architecture in Yugoslavia, 1948–1980'. Fashion and architecture have always had good relationship with each other. In this context, it was to be expected that the futuristic and stunning monuments from Yugoslavia would be a source of inspiration for fashion designers. Such is the case for Marko Feher, who originates from former Yugoslavia.
"The starting point of my inspiration was monument “Tjentiste” in Sutjeska, Bosna I Hercegovina. When I was the age of 7 I saw this monument and was totally impressed, look to me powerful, strong but in the same time remind me on wings and sounds to me freedom."

The editorial is shoot by photographer Edvin Kalić and with the model Iris Bijedić at Tjentište monument. This spomenik (monument) at Tjentište, Bosnia commemorates the fallen fighters of the Battle of the Sutjeska, which took place from May 15th to June 16th, 1943.

Read more about his research on NJAL.

Architecture in Yugoslavia - MoMA

Toward a Concrete Utopia: Architecture in Yugoslavia, 1948–1980
Through January 13, 2019 Moma - The Museum of Modern Art

The Battle of Sutjeska Monumentdesigned by sculptor Miodrag Živković.
This spomenik at Tjentište, Bosnia commemorates the fallen fighters of the Battle of the Sutjeska, which took place from May 15th to June 16th, 1943.

Situated between the capitalist West and the socialist East, Yugoslavia’s architects responded to contradictory demands and influences, developing a postwar architecture both in line with and distinct from the design approaches seen elsewhere in Europe and beyond. The architecture that emerged—from International Style skyscrapers to Brutalist “social condensers”—is a manifestation of the radical diversity, hybridity, and idealism that characterized the Yugoslav state itself. Toward a Concrete Utopia: Architecture in Yugoslavia, 1948–1980 introduces the exceptional work of socialist Yugoslavia’s leading architects to an international audience for the first time, highlighting a significant yet thus-far understudied body of modernist architecture, whose forward-thinking contributions still resonate today.

Uglješa Bogunović, Slobodan Janjić, and Milan Krstić. Avala TV Tower.
1960–65 (destroyed in 1999 and rebuilt in 2010). Mount Avala, near Belgrade, Serbia. Exterior view.
Photo: Valentin Jeck, commissioned by The Museum of Modern Art, 2016.

The exhibition includes more than 400 drawings, models, photographs, and film reels from an array of municipal archives, family-held collections, and museums across the region, and features work by important architects including Bogdan Bogdanović, Juraj Neidhardt, Svetlana Kana Radević, Edvard Ravnikar, Vjenceslav Richter, and Milica Šterić. From the sculptural interior of the White Mosque in rural Bosnia, to the post-earthquake reconstruction of the city of Skopje based on Kenzo Tange’s Metabolist design, to the new town of New Belgrade, with its expressive large-scale housing blocks and civic buildings, the exhibition examines the unique range of forms and modes of production in Yugoslav architecture and its distinct yet multifaceted character.

More info: moma.org

Berislav Serbetic and Vojin Bakic. Monument to the Uprising of the People of Kordun and Banija. 1979–81. Petrova Gora, Croatia. Exterior view. Photo: Valentin Jeck, commissioned by The Museum of Modern Art, 2016

Branko Popovic - Serbia Fashion Week

Branko Popovic - 'Best of Both Worlds' - collection at Serbia Fashion Week SS 2017 edition

The starting point in my work always refers to my Yugoslav roots and personal life experiences. In past years I have been drawn back into my Yugoslav heritage, finding inspiration in traditional clothing and folklore. Fascinated by question what it means to live in between two cultures I have been researching to develop a collection where I a feel at home.
With ‘Best of Both Worlds’ collection I had a desire to actually slow down and enjoy the process of the creation of a menswear collection. Based out of black, white and dark blue colors the collection consists of a mixture of graphical shapes and lines, combined with traditional costumes references. Focusing on material processing and details the collection is a contemporary approach to menswear, a clash between avant-garde and nostalgia.

Photography, Svetlana Braun

De Warme Winkel - Gavrilo Princip

Gavrilo Princip -> Must See! Theatre Tip

Exactly after 100 years after the assassination of Franz Ferdinand De Warme Winkel brings the ultimate anniversary performance. Gavrilo Princip premiered at HOLLAND FESTIVAL.

On June 28, 1914, Gavrilo Princip and five of his friends make an attempt on the life of the Habsburgian heir to the throne Franz Ferdinand during his visit to Sarajevo. Pistols jam, hand grenades detonate too late, if at all; the assault fails. Franz Ferdinand decides to alter the route of his visit, everyone is briefed, except his driver. Starved and disappointed, Gavrilo enters a bakery store. The moment he stepped outside, the archduke was driven past. It was too late for Gavrilo to draw his pistol, but to his astonishment the car halts down the road in order to back up again. The very last thing Franz Ferdinand lays his eyes on is a meager, narrow-shouldered man with a flimsy moustache...

Gavrilo Princip is a play about a world that is on the verge of disappearing, about a jackass who overthrows the elite, about the subjectivity of historiography, about the mighty hand of fate and about taking justice into one’s own hands. A delirious, orgasmic, theatrical reconstruction, reminiscent of a battlefield.

http://www.dewarmewinkel.nl

Yugoslav Monuments by Jan Kempenaers

The Kosmaj monument in Serbia is dedicated to soldiers of the Kosmaj Partisan detachment from World War II.

Spomenik, The Monuments of Former Yugoslavia 
The brutalist war memorials found throughout the former Yugoslavia were weird enough when they were built in the 1960s and 70s. Today, separated by the end of an architectural movement and the disintegration of the country, they seem almost alien.
Belgian photographer Jan Kempenaers captured Yugoslav monuments as artistic objects in his book, Spomenik, named for the Serb-Croat word for monument.
Thousands of the monuments were commissioned by dictator Josip Broz Tito to commemorate the resistance against Axis invaders during World War II. The abstract style stood in contrast to socialist realism and also served a political purpose.
"Tito couldn't erect figures or busts in honour of generals because he didn't want to be seen to be favouring any ethnic group, for example a Bosnian general or a Serb war hero, so instead they made these things that didn't refer to people." 
Although the monuments, made of reinforced concrete, steel, and granite, used to be tourist attractions, they have receded into obscurity since the fall of the Soviet Union and the Yugoslav Wars. When Kempenaers told locals what he was photographing, he says they thought he was crazy.

Read more

Photography © Jan Kempenaers http://www.jankempenaers.info

DIORALOP SS2014 collection

DIORALOP by Andreja Bistričić and Maja Merlić

Inspired by socialist architecture of former Yugoslavia, surrounding Zagreb, the SS14 collection stands strong and stoic, facing the world without contention.
DIORALOP collections are inspired by Polaroid pictures, which are created through intentional spills of chemicals and their exposure to different temperatures. This technique yields different patterns, which are then manipulated and constructed to form the different pieces of the collection.
Androgyny plays an important role within this collection, trying to transfer different elements of both sexes, but retaining feminine characteristics and appeal. Maintaining clean lines and silhouettes, the way the print is cut is key in fulfilling a collection, which is fluid and effortless.
The fabrics used also highlight the transmission of both sexes, through the contrast of heavy cotton panama and light silk organza. All of the fabrics used are digitally printed and purchased within the Glasgow School Of Art in Scotland.
The colours used in every collection are very experimental, due to the technique employed. A spectrum of purple is encapsulated within this collection, with highlights of petroleum green, a robust palette, which fits with the designers daring aesthetic.
Uncompromising, aware and individual.

Lookbook credits:
Photo: Sanja Bistricic
Model: Antonija Bilobrk @Sonic Models
Make-up: Ana Rajic
Hair: Mijo Majhen

http://dioralop.org