Wednesday, 30 November 2022

Open Mic Night - FASHIONCLASH Festival 2022


Open Mic Night
powered by Meester Koetsier Foundation, an interactive and performative show during the 14th edition of FASHIONCLASH Festival.

Open Mic Night aims to create inspiring encounters between designers and the public, by asking questions and sharing stories. It is an eclectic clash of visions, working methods and styles of an outspoken and progressive generation. In Open Mic Night, FASHIONCLASH Festival offers a stage to 6 fashion makers, who can present their designs and the story behind them to the public.

Participanting designers were Ruben Jurriën, Kickyland, Floor Klaassen, Loïs Brandsen, Inez Carmen, Lauren Thoonen (winner of Kunstbende 2022 Fashion category)

This unique comedy club inspired fashion event was presented by Ariah Lester.

You can watch the show here:
 

All images are by Laura Knipsael

The CLASH House - FASHIONCLASH Festival 2022

The CLASH House program by FASHIONCLASH, an exploration and research into alternative and performative forms to present fashion.

The CLASH House is a showcase and development program for a new generation of designers focusing on crossovers between fashion and other art disciplines, especially the performing arts. These fashion makers explore alternative ways of making and presenting fashion with an emphasis on ethical themes and storytelling.
Participants of The CLASH House are offered a coaching trajectory in which they are supported by theater makers Milou van Duijnhoven and Giovanni Brand. The aim of the trajectory is to stimulate the designers to experiment with presentation forms and to contribute to the renewal of the field and to create a unique experience for the public.

The performance of The CLASH House was presented by Ariah Lester on Saturday evening, November 26, during the 14th edition of FASHIONCLASH Festival.

 

You can rewatch the show:


all images are by Laura Knipsael

Tuesday, 29 November 2022

Recap - 14th edition FASHIONCLASH Festival

Ariah Lester performance, Open Mic Night show
14th edition of the international and interdisciplinary FASHIONCLASH Festival took place from 25 - 27 November 2022 in Maastricht (The Netherlands).

FASHIONCLASH Festival, an exploration of what fashion is, can be and what it can do for you and/or the world.

During this three-day hybrid (on- & offline program) festival, a new generation of designers and performing artists from all over the world are given the opportunity to show their work to a broad (inter)national audience. The program with exhibitions, performances, talks and fashion film screenings and awards, showcases projects that explore, contextualize and celebrate contemporary fashion culture. FASHIONCLASH Festival is all about discovering, stimulating and co-shaping current developments in fashion and opening up these developments to a broad audience.
The festival consists of a multidisciplinary and polyphonic program based on a selection from the proposals submitted via the open call and the projects initiated by FASHIONCLASH itself, which are developed in co-production with other organizations such as Glamcult, Via Zuid, Kunstbende and Marres.

During the festival, work by more than 50 emerging and established designers and artists from different countries around the world was on show.

Two prizes were awarded during the opening on Friday evening. Erik Bergrin & Arkan Zakharov won the Fashion Film & Video jury prize with their film 'The 8 Dissolutions', made possible in part by Prins Bernhard Cultuurfonds Limburg. Jury panel consisted of Diane Pernet, Cathelijne Blok and Niccolo Montanari. Film 'Sock Monster' by ANT EYE | Hanneke & Tosca won Kaltblut Magazine Award.



Rewatch it Online
Couldn’t make to Maastricht in person? You can now watch most of the physical program online via www.fashionclash.nl ( www.snetch.com) or FASHIONCLASH YouTube channel.

PROGRAM Recap

The Clash House is a showcase and development program for designers focusing on crossovers between fashion and other art disciplines, especially the performing arts. Participants of The Clash House were offered a coaching trajectory in which they are supported by theater makers Giovanni Brand and Milou van Duijnhoven.

Participants: Dirk Vaessen, Elliot collective, Niko Markovic, Katharina Spitz, Maya Kaplan.

Niko Markovic


Open Mic Night powered by Meester Koetsier Foundation
With Open Mic Night program FASHIONCLASH aims to create inspiring encounters between designers and audiences, by asking questions and sharing stories during a comedy club-inspired event. It is an eclectic clash of visions, working methods and styles of a distinctly new generation of designers who recently graduated in the Netherlands.
Open Mic Night was hosted by the artist and performer ARIAH LESTER.

Participants: Ruben Jurriën, Kickyland, Floor Klaassen, Loïs Brandsen, Inez Carmen, Lauren Thoonen.

Ruben Jurriën


New Fashion Narratives #1 @ Bureau Europa
New Fashion Narratives #1 @ Bureau Europa i.c.w. Glamcult New Fashion Narratives exhibition at Bureau Europa is an international selection of designers curated by Glamcult and FASHIONCLASH. New Fashion Narratives stands for the current generation of designers who see fashion as their mission. They explore the boundaries of their discipline, question social systems and specifically the fashion industry. With their works they move between the interdisciplinary domains of fashion, social design, visual arts and investigate the relationship with the user/consumer.

Participants: Art Collective BCHMNN, Mehdi Mashayekhi, LABELEDBY., OUR SHIFT, Aurélie Defez, DOMINIK, Dara Benno, SUFI, Pablo Salvador Willemars, ZOLI, Denzel Veerkamp, Luca Berger, House of rubber, SCHEPERS BOSMAN 

House of rubber


New Fashion Narratives #2 @ Marres
New Fashion Narratives exhibition at Marres consists of a multidisciplinary selection of both young and established talent with a link with the Netherlands. FASHIONCLASH signals a growing need among Dutch designers to contribute to a healthier fashion sector and a better world. This critical, research-minded and hybrid generation of fashion makers engage themselves in the transformative role of fashion in relation to social issues and propose alternative fashion practices and narratives.

Participants: Teresa van Twuijver & Studio de Maan, Extended, Lena Winterink, Bobbine Berden Design, Wei-Chi Su, Antoine Peters, Space For Fiction (SFF), Guerline Kamp, Atelier Dasha Tsapenko 

Wei-Chi Su


Fashion Film & Video
Fashion Film and Video program offered a platform to emerging designers, artists and filmmakers who experiment with the genre of fashion film/video, animation and other related audiovisual and digital media. A jury panel selected five finalists from the selection and designated a winner for the Fashion Film & Video award powered by Prins Bernhard Cultuurfonds Limburg. In addition, Kaltblut magazine chose a winner from the entire FFV selection.

Participants: Anna Melegh, Erik Bergrin and directed by Arkan Zakharov, Roumans, Clara Son, Chiron Floris, Hadi Moussally, T*MITROVSKA, JING QIAN, Haus Of Stone by Danayi Madondo, Marija Petraitytė, Saskia Roturier, Caterina DeRousse, PUNTJUDITH, NEO Design, Bastiaan van der Hoek, Wendy Owusu, ANT EYE | Hanneke & Tosca. 

ANT EYE | Hanneke & Tosca


Fashion Makes Sense & Talk
Fashion Makes Sense is FASHIONCLASH's ongoing participation program from which projects are developed focusing on social design, inclusion, education and in collaboration between professionals and semi-professionals/amateurs, especially involving young people. Chanel Trapman (MUMSTER) moderated the program and concersation with participants of these projects. During the festival the results of projects 'MOVING PORTRAITS', 'THE HOOOOOODIE PROJECT' and 'MASCOT' were presented. 

Moving Portraits

Finally, from the FMS program Who cares what you wear? was presented, an interactive theater performance for young people about fashion and sustainability, developed in collaboration with theater maker Mayke Roels, and actresses Ilse Geilen and Lindsay Zwaan. 

Who cares what you wear?

Talentlab
The sixth edition of Talentlab, the talent development project of Toneelgroep Maastricht and VIA ZUID - Talent development performing arts Limburg, will take place from 24 October to 26 November 2022. Talentlab is again part of FASHIONCLASH Ferstival for this edition. In Talentlab, young promising professional talents from the performing arts work together intensively for five weeks to further develop their artistry. Led by Paul Slangen (dramaturg Toneelgroep Maastricht) and Joost Segers (artistic developer VIA ZUID), they will experiment and be inspired by each other and by fashion.
Together they are working towards an end result that will be shown during FASHIONCLASH Festival.
www.toneelgroepmaastricht.nl/Talentlab_2022

Talentlab


Rover | Roshanak Morrowatian in collaboration with Antoine Peters


“What is strength? Do I have to be loud in order to be powerful? As a highly sensitive, empathic, introverted and shy person, can I still call myself strong? Do you consider yourself strong? And on what do you base that on?”
Choreographer and dancer Roshanak Morrowatian started research for her upcoming dance performance ‘House of Strength’. A work focusing on her roots and the ancient Persian ritual of the Zurkhaneh. For the next phase of her research she invited audience to join an interactive workshop & talk that took place at Brandweerkantine.

“We welcome you for a moment of exchange. In a safe and respectful environment we will discuss the topic of the work, and explore and deepen our awareness and expression of strength, both in dialogue and movement. For this special occasion we have invited our team member and designer Antoine Peters to give some insight in the creative process of the performance. ”

Rover

FASHIONCLASH Festival
is an initiative of the Maastricht (Netherlands) based FASHIONCLASH Foundation, an interdisciplinary showcase and development platform and a worldwide network of new generation fashion makers and (performing) artists. Since 2009, the FASHIONCLASH has realized more than 200 projects in the Netherlands and abroad.

www.fashionclash.nl

All images are by Laura Knipsael

Sunday, 20 November 2022

Balenciaga in Black at Kunstmuseum The Hague

Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895 - 1972), regarded as 'le maître' among couturiers. "Haute couture is like an orchestra, for which only Balenciaga is the conductor. The rest of us are just musicians, following the directions he gives us”, Christian Dior once said. The Spanish designer was known as a strict taskmaster who regarded his work as a religion. His complex, sculptural designs worked best in black, one of his favourite colours. Kunstmuseum Den Haag presents an ode to his designs in black with its fashion exhibition Balenciaga in Black. Over 100 masterpieces from the collections of Palais Galliera and Maison Balenciaga are stealing the show at Kunstmuseum Den Haag.
This is the first time that such a large selection of Balenciaga's work has been shown in the Netherlands.

On show from 24 September 2022 till 05 March 2023

More information: Kunstmuseum

Tim Walker: Wonderful Things at Kunsthal


At the Kunsthal in Rotterdam you can immerse yourself in the fantastical imagination of one of the world’s most inventive fashion photographers: Tim Walker.
The exhibition Tim Walker: Wonderful Things celebrates his rich imaginative power. With elaborate and often surreal sets, his photographs transport the visitors to enchanted worlds. Tilda Swinton, Grace Jones, Grayson Perry, as well as many other muses and models, feature in this largest-ever exhibition about Tim Walker – with over 150 new works inspired by the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A) in London.

At the heart of the exhibition are ten new photographic series that are directly influenced by the treasures in the V&A’s huge collection. The wide-ranging and eclectic collection of this museum for art and design is a source of inspiration for Walker. Together with curators, conservators and technicians he roamed the impressive galleries, depots, and hidden nooks and crannies of the museum in search of objects to spark his imagination. Along the way he encountered luminous stained-glass windows, vivid Indian miniature paintings, jewelled snuffboxes, erotic illustrations, golden shoes, and a 65-metre-long photograph of the Bayeux Tapestry, the largest photograph in the museum’s collection. These and many other rare objects inspired Walker’s monumental photographs in the exhibition.

‘I’m interested in breaking down the boundaries that society has created, to enable more varied types of beauty and the wonderful diversity of humanity to be celebrated.’


MAISON the FAUX
are responsible for the design of Wonderful Things at the Kunsthal. As their point of departure they have taken the spectacular design that British set designer and creative Shona Heath – Tim Walker’s long-term collaborator – made for the exhibition of the same name at the V&A.



Tim Walker

was born in England in 1970. At the age of 18 he started working at the library of the media company Condé Nast. There he encounters the work of the English photographer and costume designer Cecil Beaton and his interest in photography began. Tim Walker studied photography at Exeter College of Art. After graduating he worked as a freelance photographic assistant in London and subsequently moved to New York City where he became full-time assistant to the renowned fashion photographer Richard Avedon. Aged only 25, Tim Walker shot his first big assignment for Vogue. This was the start of his career as a fashion photographer and he has since been photographing for the British, Italian, and American editions of Vogue, as well as for leading fashion and style titles such as W,
i-D, AnOther, and LOVE Magazine. Just like Cecil Beaton, Tim Walker photographs his models in theatrical settings. His work is characterized by a rich imaginative creativity and filled with fairytale references. The fact that Tim Walker finds inspiration in Surrealism and Romanticism is reflected in his choice of themes such as childhood, nature, or emotions, and his praise of the individual. Walker’s talent enables him to draw the spectator into his elaborately crafted dreamworlds.

 On show Sept. 24, 2022 – Jan. 29, 2023

www.kunsthal.nl

Words source Kunsthal, images brankopopovicblog

Saturday, 12 November 2022

NO ACCESS - Viewmaster Projects

NO ACCESS invites to access the cold reality of migration

Once in a while you visit an exhibition that really has an impact on your experience. NO ACCESS is one of those embodied encounters that gives you shivers but at the same time has a heartwarming effect because of the humanity that the makers involved look for in their work and the people you meet in their  works. Projected on various walls, in the chilly maze of a former NATO headquarters, you are confronted with the horrific reality of migration. It can't leave you cold, at least I hope it does not.
The context and placement of the works has been placed very carefully and cleverly. In fact, it should have a permanent place for many people to see, and that we continue to remind ourselves that humanity should be a blessing to pursue. In these times of polarization, the ever-growing hatred towards 'the other' we must not lose each other and continue to meet in ease and discomfort.
Migration is inherent to human development and will only increase as climate change makes parts of the world unlivable. Unfortunately, also because the wars continue.
I can't deny that NO ACCESS has touched me through the personal experience of migration, therefore also extra confrontational to see that nothing seems to have improved in how we deal with migrants.

NO ACCESS is an onpoint immersive exhibition and a selection of 21 works by socially-engaged contemporary video artists and filmmakers. The exhibition contains various works, interactive media installations, short films and animations about border control and migration.

The initiator, Viewmaster Projects staged these 21 works in the Cannerberg, a former secret underground NATO headquarters, now completely gutted, in an old marl quarry just south of Maastricht.

“This location’s disorienting eeriness reinforces the already potent significance of the projections. The Cannerberg is a cold, damp and dark tunnel system. Marl, reinforced concrete, bricks and thick steel doors are reminders of the Cold War, during which this bunker complex helped guard the eastern border of what was then Western Europe.”

From 16 September to 13 November 2022, part of the system of corridors are open to visitors for NO ACCESS.

Artists:
Hans Op de Beeck (BE), Josh Begley (US), Sylvain George (FR), Tina Farifteh (IR/NL), Forensic Architecture & Forensic Oceanography (GB), Anita Groener (NL/IE), Mohamad Hafeda (LB), Laura Huygen (NL), Adrian Melis (CU), Yoshua Okón (MX), Adrian Paci (AL), Osman Taheri (AF/NL), Marieke van der Velden en Philip Brink (NL), Sam Yazdanpanna (NL), Cigdem Yuksel (NL), Mark Wallinger (GB).

www.viewmaster-projects.com

Friday, 4 November 2022

Things That Matter - Microlab - Dutch Design Week 2022

Things That Matter at Microlab Hall is a showcase for designers and initiatives who with their work respond or explore solutions for the societal challenges of our time. From raw material scarcity to the way we live and engage with each other. These projects touch upon our daily lives. In addition, all nominees from the Dutch Design Awards are exhibited with in the Microlab Hall.

Here is a small selection of the showcased projects.

Lisa Konno & Sarah Blok

Nobu Baba Henk is a book that combines the progress and stories of the film trilogy about migrant fathers by designer Lisa Konno and director Sarah Blok. In this concluding book each film gets introduced with snippets of sketches, design process, reference images, unused writings and quotes showing parts of the actual films through subtitled stills.
All carefully selected and designed by Marius Schwarz.

Zeeuws Museum x Duran Lantink

This project explores the changing meaning of locally worn clothing and its sustainable possibilities, an insight into Lantink’s characteristic process of deconstruction and reconstruction. Lantink uses visual materials from the Zeeuws Museum and locally acquired garments. Consciously seeking out the tensions between surrender and subversion, between respect and reclamation, between preservation and recycling. Lantink works respectfully but stops at nothing.

Community Couture
Community Couture is an attempt to bring multiple perspectives together, with garments serving as a source of individual stories, collective experiences, shared goals, history and hopes for the future. Last year, Aniela organised Community Couture workshops, collecting hundreds of stories through colours, shapes, and words. This year, they will present collectively made Community Couture garments which preserve, share and honour the thoughts of people who contributed last year.

De Zachte stad: Gemeente Rotterdam x Christien Meindertsma
2,500 cuddly sheep keep the grass short in a city full of modern architecture. Good for 5,000 kilos of wool per year. Christien Meindertsma looked into the quality of Rotterdam wool. What seemed like a worthless pile of residues proved to be a treasury of innovative surprises and valuable material.

Lena Winterink - Personal Patterns
Lena Winterink asked the six dressmakers of the Eendagszaak, about the objects that are most precious to them. With photos of these objects and the stories in mind, she designed a personal print on textile for each woman. With their personal patterns the women designed and made a garment.



Choub - Mehdi Mashayekhi
Choub (which it means wood in Farsi) addresses migration as a social phenomenon in a poetic way. manipulating and training material for new construction is a symbolic way of displacement for migrants in destination societies.

NEW CRAFTS
Crafts Council Netherlands brought various artisanal and digital makers together under the umbrella of its New Crafts incentive programme, with the aim to spur knowledge exchange, experiment and research.  

Featuring: Amandine David, Anita Michaluszko, Aram Hartsuyker, Bianca Koevoets, Daniël Maarleveld, Esmé Hofman, Eva van Kempen, Flavia Bon, Joost Jansen, Loret Karman, Marieke de Hoop, Marieke van Heesbeen, Marius Stanasel, Martine van ‘t Hul, Ming Design Studio, Nina van Bart, Rik van Veen & Roel Deden.

https://ddw.nl

Dutch Design Awards 2022

Every year during DDW, DDA awards the best Dutch design of the past year, divided into 8 categories. In addition, the DDA Exhibition displays all winning and nominated designs.

For third year in a raw, I took part in the jury panel of the Fashion category. The winners were announced and celebrated on 27 October at the DDA Award Night during Dutch Design Week 2022 in Eindhoven. 

Together with the jury consting of Rachid Naas, Mehtap Gungormez, Marga Weimans and chairman Iris Ruisch, the three nominees have been decided.
For this year the nominees were Antoine Peters, David Laport and Yamuna Forzani.

David Laport is nominated for the project Local Vegetation.

Local Vegetation is the tenth collection from Studio David Laport, inspired by a photo series depicting local places with unique vegetation in the magazine Atmos. An important objective of this collection was to translate the lushness of vegetation into a material. Laport and his team embraced the limitations presented by the pandemic. For example, the studio used YouTube tutorials to learn the whole process of manual pleating. In addition, the studio also developed the nylon-hyper-fringe material itself. This has enabled Studio David Laport to make its largest couture pieces zero waste, which the studio has since embraced as its vision and policy.

Saturday, 29 October 2022

Program – 14th edition of FASHIONCLASH Festival

14th edition of the international and interdisciplinary FASHIONCLASH Festival will take place from 25 - 27 November 2022 in Maastricht (The Netherlands).

During this three-day hybrid (on- & offline program) festival, a new generation of designers and performing artists from all over the world are given the opportunity to show their work to a broad (inter)national audience. The program with exhibitions, performances, talks and fashion film screenings and awards, showcases projects that explore, contextualize and celebrate contemporary fashion culture. FASHIONCLASH Festival is all about discovering, stimulating and co-shaping current developments in fashion and opening up these developments to a broad audience.

The festival consists of a multidisciplinary and polyphonic program based on a selection from the proposals submitted via the open call and the projects initiated by FASHIONCLASH itself, which are developed in co-production with other organizations such as Glamcult, Via Zuid, Kunstbende and Marres.

During the festival, work by more than 50 emerging and established designers and artists from different countries around the world can be seen, including SCHEPERS BOSMAN, House of rubber, Atelier Dasha Tsapenko, Denzel Veerkamp, Erik Bergin, Hadi Moussaly, NEO Design, Puntjudith, Wendy Owusu, Ruben Jurriën, Elliot Collective, Rover, Antoine Peters and many more.

Discover all participants: www.fashionclash.nl/fcf-2022-participants

FASHIONCLASH Festival is accessible to everyone via ticket sales and/or for free. Tickets are for sale online at www.fashionclash.nl from October 27, 2022.

PROGRAM OVERVIEW

Saturday, 15 October 2022

Global Fashioning Assembly 2022 programme

The GFA22 programme is live 

The Global Fashioning Assembly is an international 3-day online event that follows the sun around the world from Friday 20 October 2022 at 02:00am UTC till Sunday 23 October 2022 at 11:00pm UTC. The programme offers an immersion into the pluriverse of fashion. As a coalitional gathering beyond institutional, disciplinary and geographical boundaries, it aims to decentralise knowledge creation and sharing regarding fashion. 

Join twelve coalitions from around the world that will share activities including interviews, panel discussions, a meme workshop, weaving and design studio visits, exhibition talks, a ritual, films, market visits, and more. Each offering is underpinned by the urgent need to decolonise the fashion system focusing on resilience, resistance and diversity through local attention, activations and celebrations.


Friday 21 October 2022 begins with five local fashioning coalitions from Aotearoa (New Zealand), Kazakhstan, Pakistan, South-Africa and Kenya, sharing ways of learning, knowing and doing through talks, films, workshops and debates that move from museum collections to classrooms, and from artisan knowledges and heritages to decolonial creative practices.

Saturday 22 October 2022 welcomes five local fashioning research collectives and decolonial projects from Croatia, the Netherlands, Egypt, Morocco and Wales. They will share ways of remembering, caring and questioning with talks, films and workshops that move from workwear and a cultivating flax project, to fashion archives and decolonising design spaces.

Sunday 23 October 2022 ends with four local fashioning collectives from Brazil, Ghana, USA, and Peru, sharing ways of cultivating, reflecting and celebrating through talks, films, performance and workshops that move from decolonial fashion practices and museum interventions, to rethinking fashion knowledge forms and craftsmanship.

Each coalition hosts the Global Fashioning Assembly for two hours, offering an opportunity to share their local stories, practices and struggles to a global audience.

Sharing Councils

In-between the hosting sessions are one-hour Sharing Councils for participants to share, reflect, listen and encourage to be deeply present to each other, to listen deeply and speak with each other, rather than speak at each other. Underpinning all aspects of the GFA22 is the work of building coalitional consciousness, and creating discourses regarding fashioning that are affirmative, regenerative and diverse.

Register on Eventbrite. All hosting programmes will be accessible through one ZOOM link, so you can join any event at any time and contribute to the 1-hour Sharing Councils in between.
Follow us on Instagram for last minute updates.

The GFA22 is coordinated by The Research Collective for Decoloniality & Fashion.

Read Erica de Greef’s blogpost ‘Staging Our Own Decolonial Response: Global Fashioning Assembly 2022’ on the ideation of the Assembly.

#globalfashioningassembly #GFA22 #rcdfashion

The GFA22 is coordinated by the Research Collective for Decoloniality & Fashion with a financial support of the Stimuleringsfonds in the Netherlands.

https://rcdfashion.wordpress.com


Winners Announced > Global Design Graduate Show 2022

ARTS THREAD & GUCCI announced the Judges and Public Vote winners of the 2022 Global Design Graduate Show.

This is the third edition of the Global Design Graduate Show which saw 5,489 students (undergraduate, graduate & postgraduate) enter their work, surpassing the number of entries from 2021 & 2020, making this officially the biggest ever online showcase of graduating artists & designers worldwide. The third year of the Global Design Graduate Show built upon the successes of the previous two years with an increase in entries and votes from around the world.
A panel of industry professionals voted per specialism to choose their favourites; this year’s panel of esteemed judges included Lionel Vermeil, Luxury Prospective Director from Kering.

ARTSTHREAD's panel of independent expert judges selected the shortlist here.

There was also a public vote enabling fans of the students’ work to cast their vote.
There were 187, 352 votes cast in the public vote and there is one winner per category.
The public vote winners are

- Fashion / Accessories / Textiles – Lyu Danlei, Hong Kong Polytechnic University
- Digital / Visual Communication / Film - Asia Cheung, National College of Art and Design, Dublin
- Product Design / Architecture / Interiors - Cheuk Yu Kelly Tang, Hong Kong Polytechnic University
- Fine Art / Photography / Craft – Ou Lin, Royal College of Art, London 


Global Design Graduate Show 2021 in collaboration with GUCCI from ARTSTHREAD on Vimeo.

Fashion, Textiles, Accessories Judges winners:
Womenswear: Dominika Grzybek
Textiles (Knit-Weave) Pauline Dujancourt
Menswear: Archie Hammond
Sustainable Fashion/Textiles:
Fashion Comms: Josefina Maiza
Textiles (Print/Embroidery): Camila Barrero
Sports & Denim: Emily Clarke
Accessories: Erin Yang


Instagram: www.instagram.com/globaldesigngraduateshow/

 

Thursday, 13 October 2022

Bas Kosters - Sincerely yours at Droog

From December 6 to 11, artist Bas Kosters will present his exhibition 'Sincerely yours' in Droog Design in Amsterdam. 

 'Sincerely yours' shows Kosters' latest series of personal and loving drawings about being self-aware of emotions.

“How do I feel today?” The luxury of constantly reflecting on this is something Kosters occupies in daily life. But when thinking about feelings, the real feeling may also be overlooked. Opinions about feelings also contribute to this. Allowing but also rejecting the thought, the emotion is a game that you can keep yourself busy with. The emotional self-awareness takes place within us but also outside us, sometimes even publicly. Could it be a sign of a generation or an outcome of our hyper complicated lives? With this series of drawings, Kosters shows these often conflicting principles and emotions in a clear graphic style, in which the teddy bear as the main character plays a major role.

The exhibition is completed with an extensive selection of autonomous work that shows the inner world of Bas Kosters. This world, which is mainly known for his idiosyncratic, sensational fashion shows from the beginning of his artistic career, has been translated for several years now in drawings, rich tapestries, glass objects, soft sculptures and paintings.

With this own initiative, Kosters shows his work as an autonomous artist himself and for this he settles for the second time at Droog design. The centrally located location forms an excellent backdrop for Koster's work. The choice for an independent sales exhibition without gallery representation is an experiment to determine your own course.

photo: Marc Deurloo

Since his graduation, Kosters has worked with his studio on a variety of design and art assignments. This enables him to further develop and deepen his autonomous work. The course of his work is increasingly shifting from applied to autonomous. He recently worked on glass objects with the National Glass Museum Leerdam, published a book with 100 portraits, has been able to create new work especially for various museum exhibitions and currently works as an artist in residence at the European Ceramic Work Center.

The exhibition 'Sincerely yours' is like a visual letter to the viewer; sincere, candid and loving.

"Sincerely yours" Bas Kosters
From 06-12-2022 to 11-12-2022.
Open: Tuesday to Sunday from 11:00 AM to 7:00 PM.

Location
Droog Design
Staalstraat 7B
1011 JJ Amsterdam

www.baskosters.com


 

Monday, 3 October 2022

Fitting In, exhibition at Z33, Hasselt Belgium

work by Alia Ali
Fitting In opened on 1st of October. It was a full house with the most attended opening in the Z33 history.

During the day, the opening program started with a performance in which performer Samuel Valor Reyes walked through the streets of Hasselt dressed in the dress 'Dress of our time'.
Later on in the evening during the party, Samuel gathered local performers and artists Aurora Mesropyan, Jento Schaf, Amaryllis Beckx, Inci Gül Civelekoglu and designer Jordy Arthur to stage MISFITTING IN show in line with the curatorial context of Fitting In.

"The world is becoming more and more polyphonic, more multicolored. Identities are located at intersections where different worlds converge. Art forms such as waacking, vogue and pole dancing are alive in pop culture, but these forms are layered in their histories that often go unrecognized. Behind the scenes, pole dancing is still sexualized, vogue is used as an 'effect' in common contexts, and at the same time they have a background of oppression, power relations and a quest for autonomy. During the opening of 'Fitting In' we want to bring 'Misfitting In'; a three-part performance in which these different art forms come together and are celebrated in the context of a safe space. A space with inclusiveness as the common denominator and where dance, movement and image fluctuate. Queerness, colors and choreography activate the audience." - Samuel Valor Reyes.

MISFITTING IN

ABOUT FITTING IN

Fitting In exhibition by Z33 gathers artists, (fashion) designers and activists to question—and celebrate—our liquid identity

Hasselt won’t be able to overlook the expo. The building of Z33 has been connected to the flats across the street with hundreds of ribbons, ending in a vertical forest of colours inside the building itself. It is the entry point for an exhibition that asks sharp questions about our identity. How do we find our place in today’s world, where we are surrounded by so many voices at once? 

We all devote a lot of thought and energy to our identity. Research shows that one in five people in Flanders cannot fully express what—or who—they feel like. The current group exhibition at Z33 celebrates a new kind of liquid identity and, in doing so, breaks down all barriers between visual art, fashion, design and activism. 

Tom van der Borght
Curators Annelies Thoelen, Branko Popovic and Marnix Rummens brought together artists at the intersection between all these worlds. Eye-catcher, for instance, is Tom Van der Borght, the local designer who won both the Jury’s and the Public’s prize at the prestigious Hyères fashion festival. For Z33, he designs an exuberant installation celebrating his multiple personality: the 7 Ways to be T.VDB. Alia Ali wraps the stairwell integrally with prints on top of prints on top of prints, adding a swing to the ceiling for the full-blown experience.

Many of the artists come from hyper-diverse backgrounds and infuse this into their work by also asking the viewer to switch between viewpoints. Photographer Marwan Bassiouni, for instance, shoots archetypical Dutch landscapes through the windows of  mosques, always showing some of the surrounding interior as well. Mous Lamrabat created prints that change according to the position you take as a viewer. Nazanin Fakoor pulls out all the stops with an immersive projection. At first glance a sheer parade of colours, until it becomes clear where the images come from.

The Fabricant is a purely digital fashion house: one of the pioneers to design clothes that do not physically exist but only fit your avatar online. Elisa van Joolen assembles hybrid totebags from bags from supermarkets, cultural institutions and big brands. She invites visitors to become ‘caretakers’ of something that was actually meant to be a disposable object. 

The grand finale of the exhibition is Camping Multitude: a tent camp where 11 artists and collectives each use tents differently to make their own artistic or political statement. Think of a dress made out of a Syrian refugee tent, a tent composed of all the world’s flags (designed for the stateless continent of Antarctica), wind- and waterproof clothing that transforms into sleeping bags for the homeless.

Fitting In is an exhibition that raises more issues than it answers. What remains of our fixed values? That is what these artists, designers and activists expressively wonder about. We have always shown different aspects of ourselves according to the context we end up in. But with the explosion of mobility, globalisation and the internet, the floodgate of multiple or liquid identities has finally been opened. Today, we have simply become more. It is the onset for many new questions, but also for a visual feast without limitations.


Curators:
Annelies Thoelen, Marnix Rummens, Branko Popovic

Artists: Christian Bakalov, Alia Ali, Lisa Konno & Sarah Blok, Mous Lamrabat, Berre Brans, Elisa Van Joolen, Das Leben am Haverkamp: Dewi Bekker, Anouk van Klaveren & Gino Anthonisse, The Fabricant & Teresa Manzo, CFGNY, Ines Alpha, Tom Van der Borght, Jo Cope & Boutique by Shelter, Marwan Bassiouni, Nazanin Fakoor, Helen Storey, Sanne Vaassen, ADIFF Angela Luna, Anais Hazo-Santorin, Elke Lutgerink, Lotje Heidingsfeld, Lucy & Jorge Orta, Mona Steinhaeusser, Sheltersuit, Thierry Geoffroy, Woman Cave Collective: Léticia Chanliau & Chloé Macary-Carney.
 

Practical Info
Fitting In runs from 02.10 to 26.02.23 at Z33.

Every second Thursday of the month, you can visit the exhibitions for free and catch an activity. The first nocturne is on October 13.

More info: www.z33.be/en/programma/fitting-in/

All exhibition images by Selma Gurbuz, opening performance images are by Iris van der Heijden

Friday, 30 September 2022

Africa Fashion - Victoria and Albert Museum


The irresistible creativity, ingenuity and unstoppable global impact of contemporary African fashions are celebrated in an extensive display of garments, textiles, personal testimonies, photographs, sketches, film and catwalk footage in this exhibition. Many of the garments on show hail from the archives of iconic mid-twentieth century African designers – Shade Thomas-Fahm, Chris Seydou, Kofi Ansah and Alphadi. Alongside these are personal insights from influential contemporary African fashion creatives, including Imane Ayissi, IAMISIGO, Moshions, Thebe Magugu and Sindiso Khumalo, as well as highlights from fashion trends of the day, which are on display for the first time.

Foregrounding individual African voices and perspectives, the exhibition presents African fashions as a self-defining art form that reveals the richness and diversity of African histories and cultures. Africa Fashion celebrates the vitality and innovation of a selection of fashion creatives from over 20 countries, exploring the work of the vanguard in the twentieth century and the creatives at the heart of this eclectic and cosmopolitan scene today.

Across contemporary couture, ready-to-wear, made-to-order and adornment, the exhibition seeks to offer a close-up look at the new generation of ground-breaking designers, collectives, stylists and fashion photographers working in Africa today. It explores how the digital world accelerated the expansion of the industry, irreversibly transforming global fashions as we know them. 



Starting with the African independence and liberation years from the mid-late 1950s – 1994 that sparked a radical political and social reordering across the continent, the African Cultural Renaissance section looks at the long period of unbounded creativity. Spanning fashion, music, the visual arts, protest posters, publications and records, we see objects that embody this era of radical change. Early publications from members of the Mbari Club, established for African writers, artists, and musicians, sit alongside the cover artwork for Beasts of No Nation by Fela Kuti – a call-to-arms album which embodied the communal feeling of frustration with the politics of the time, but also the energy of Africa's creativity and its artists' drive to create beautiful things.

The Politics and Poetics of Cloth considers the importance of cloth in many African countries, and how the making and wearing of indigenous cloths in the moment of independence became a strategic political act. Wax prints, commemorative cloth, àdìrẹ, kente and bògòlanfini are featured – examples of a rich textile history that includes thousands of techniques from across the continent. On display is commemorative cloth made in the early 1990s following the release of Nelson Mandela, featuring a portrait of the soon-to-be first Black President of South Africa and the words "A BETTER LIFE FOR ALL – WORKING TOGETHER FOR JOBS, PEACE AND FREEDOM".

The first generation of African designers to gain attention throughout the continent and globally can be seen in the Vanguard section. The rise and impact, creative process and inspirations of Shade Thomas-Fahm, Chris Seydou, Kofi Ansah, Alphadi, Naïma Bennis, and their peers are traced, and brought to life by real stories from those who loved and wore their distinctive designs.

 
 
Capturing Change focuses on the portrait photography of the mid-late 20th century, capturing the mood of nations on the brink of self-rule. The euphoria of decolonisation coincides with the democratisation of photography which was made possible through cheaper film and lighter weight cameras. Shots document the modernity, cosmopolitanism and fashion consciousness of individuals, whilst portraits taken in studios and domestic spaces became affirmations of agency and self-representation – visibly taking pride in being Black and African. Highlights from this section include studio photography from Sanlé Sory, Michel Papami Kameni and Rachidi Bissiriou. The stylish colour portraits of James Barnor also sit alongside domestic photography of 10 families gleaned from the V&A's public call-out in January 2021.

The new generation of ground-breaking designers, collectives, stylists and fashion photographers working in Africa today are celebrated on the mezzanine level of the exhibition. A first section on Minimalism features a look by Rwandan fashion house Moshions, known for re-imagining traditional Rwandan forms and cultural motifs into contemporary pieces. Paying tribute to the ceremonial attire worn historically by Rwandan royalty, the menswear look on show references the traditional Umwitero – a sash draped over the shoulder – as well as featuring beadwork and embroidery that takes inspiration from Imigongo aesthetics.


The Mixology section features an ensemble from IAMISIGO's Spring/Summer 2019 collection, Gods of the Wilderness, which references ancient West African masquerade costumes. For this collection, designer Bubu Ogisi was inspired by traditional West African abstract performance art, and the unique visual identity and traditions of adornment that have been created by different individual cultural groups.

Artisanal will showcase a blue and white ensemble of DAKALA CLOTH by NKWO, who work with small-scale artisan makers across the African continent that specialise in crafts such as hand dyeing, weaving, beading and embroidery. NKWO explores ways of using waste materials in her designs while still preserving traditional textile craft skills. DAKALA CLOTH, made from waste fabric is stripped and then sewn back together, using a technique that gives the appearance of traditional woven cloth.

Self-portrait, Gouled Ahmed, Addis Foam, Ethiopia
Afrotopia features a look from Thebe Magugu's Alchemy collection, created in collaboration with Noentla Khumalo – a stylist and traditional healer. The collection centres on African spirituality and the relationship we have with our ancestors. Alongside will be a look by Selly Raby Kane, which takes inspiration from Afro-Futurism.

In Sartorialists, costume designer, stylist and photographer Gouled Ahmed's self-portraiture revolts against cultural norms, mixing textured garments from the Horn of Africa with contemporary everyday materials to play with notions of identity. Ahmed's work challenges the lack of nuance in the depictions of non-binary Black Muslims.

In Adornment, a neckpiece made of brass, sisal and borax salt from Ami Doshi Shah's Salt of the Earth collection examines the talismanic properties of jewellery and the storytelling ability of materials drawn from nature.

From global fashion weeks to celebrity wearers and the role of social media, Africa Fashion will celebrate and champion the diversity and ingenuity of the continent's fashion scene. The exhibition forms part of a broader and ongoing V&A commitment to grow the museum's permanent collection of work by African and African Diaspora designers, working collaboratively to tell new layered stories about the richness and diversity of African creativity, cultures, and histories, using fashion as a catalyst.

On show from 2 July 2022 – 16 April 2023.
www.vam.ac.uk

Thursday, 29 September 2022

Fitting In exhibition at Z33 in Hasselt

Mous Lamrabat

Fitting In
On show 02.10 to 26.02.23 at Z33 in Hasselt (Belgium)

The world turns increasingly pluriverse. How can we, without losing ourselves, become part of a larger entity? That question forms the starting point of the group exhibition Fitting In. Artists and designers show how lavish our context can be, if we are open to the many voices around us. They understand identities as multi-layered or fluid. In conversation with you they explore the boundaries between fashion, visual art, photography, design and the world.

The multitude in which we find ourselves today as world inhabitants demands a whole new form of mutual involvement. Rather than following traditions unquestionably, we are invited in each new encounter to remediate our thoughts and actions. Our identity becomes a fluid given and our creative capacity plays a key role in this quest for mutual coordination. However challenging this new situation may be, it offers an excellent opportunity to deal with ourselves and our environment a lot more consciously. 

The FITTING IN exhibition asks questions about reshaping the ways we live together. On hierarchy, norm, the construction of differentiation and equality. Exhibition brings together artists and designers who recharge themselves on the multiplicity in and around themselves, and from there make our cultural constructions conscious and accessible. Based on their own unique approach, they propose concrete scenarios for real change. By approaching identity dynamically and hybridly, they explore new relationships with the other, with themselves, with the environment, with our world view, and with the future.

Participating artists:

Christian Bakalov, Alia Ali, Lisa Konno & Sarah Blok, Mous Lamrabat, Berre Brans, Elisa Van Joolen, Das Leben am Haverkamp: Dewi Bekker, Anouk van Klaveren & Gino Anthonisse, The Fabricant & Teresa Manzo, CFGNY, Ines Alpha, Tom Van der Borght, Jo Cope & Boutique by Shelter, Marwan Bassiouni, Nazanin Fakoor, Helen Storey, Sanne Vaassen, ADIFF Angela Luna, Anais Hazo-Santorin, Elke Lutgerink, Lotje Heidingsfeld, Lucy & Jorge Orta, Mona Steinhaeusser, Sheltersuit, Thierry Geoffroy, Woman Cave Collective: Léticia Chanliau & Chloé Macary-Carney.

Lucy & Orta _ Antartical Village

Curators: Annelies Thoelen, Branko Popovic and Marnix Rummens
Scenography: Jasper Zehetgruber
Graphic Design: Studio de Ronners
With thanks Rien Geypen, Kurt Geraerts and to the whole Z33 team.

More informaton: Z33

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