Monday, 18 July 2016
Tina Gorjanc turns Alexander McQueen's DNA into leather designs
Central Saint Martins graduate Tina Gorjanc proposed a conceptual range of leather accessories made of skin grown from late fashion designer Alexander McQueen's DNA.
Recently she presented her “Pure Human” project in an exhibition, using products made of pig skin to show what the final items could look like.
The Pure Human range uses DNA sourced from labels in McQueen's first collection, Jack the Ripper Stalks His Victims, which contain locks of the designer's hair housed in perspex.
After extracting the genetic material and implementing it into a cell culture, Tina process involves harvesting the cells into skin tissue. This would be tanned and processed into human leather with the view to using it in bags, jackets and backpacks.
“With the tattoos and manipulation of freckles and sunburning, I wanted to showcase the material. I think that was really important in terms of getting this connection between the jacket and McQueen.”
"The Pure Human project was designed as a critical design project that aims to address shortcomings concerning the protection of biological information and move the debate forward using current legal structures."
"If a student like me was able to patent a material extracted from Alexander McQueen's biological information as there was no legislation to stop me, we can only imagine what big corporations with bigger funding are going to be capable of doing in the future. Furthermore, the project explores the ability of the technology to shift the perception of the production system for luxury goods as we know it and project its implementation in our current commercial system."
Courtesy, http://www.tinagorjanc.com
Sunday, 17 July 2016
Alya Hessy at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016
Alya Hessy, graduated from the Gerrit Rietveld Academie in 2015, operates in the world between the body and textiles.
Born in Ukraine, living in the Netherlands and fascinated by Japan, Alya explores the realms of politics, philosophy and physicality through making objects, writing and performing. She seeks emptiness as a way of letting go of the pre-defined and allowing multiple interpretations.
At the Heritage exhibition at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016 she presented a 'knitting performance' with aim to explore the physicality of knitting.
"The work explores knitting as a concept, whereby this heritage craft becomes a model of human relationships.
Two entities, working together, create a material. Two human bodies start moving to become knitting needles, the choreography of knitting unfolds into space and materialises into a story of two people collaborating"
Q&A with Alya Hessy
In what projects are you involved at this moment?
I am exploring new possibilities through collaborations with inspiring people. I am resear ching the meaning of craft through history and now. And I am still trying to figure out life, ha-ha!
Who are your artistic influences or inspirations and why?
Louise Bourgeois: incredibly consistent, stubborn and mischievous. Kenya Hara about the concept of emptiness as an opening of possibilities. Japanese spaces, gardens, poetry. Roland Barthes “ The Empire of Signs” – a collection of refined witty essays on various aspects of emptiness in Japanese culture.
Finding your own voice is difficult, where and how do you find your personal creativity (before you start designing; during the design process)?
I use my background in computer programming for collecting, analysing and dissecting data, extracting the essence. I combine it with an intuitive approach to feel the quality of the material and find a way of shaping it.
What do you want to communicate with your designs in general?
Make space.
Take your time.
Look. Listen.
Feel.
Can you tell us something about the project you presented at the FASHIONCLASH Festival? Together with a choreographer and my co-performer Pavlos Marios Ktoridis we will explore the physicality of knitting. It is a durational performance, which we performed during the Heritage Exhibition.
"A seemingly simple action, a whole range of human emotions, growing material: human relationship as a garment."
Why have you decided to participate at FASHIONCLASH Festival?
The topic Heritage triggered me, as for the performance (that will be shown on the festival) I work with an old heritage craft of knitting. In my work I strive for emptiness (multiple possibilities). It is exciting to place this work in yet another context, that of fashion.
More about Alya and her work here: http://www.alyahessy.com
Born in Ukraine, living in the Netherlands and fascinated by Japan, Alya explores the realms of politics, philosophy and physicality through making objects, writing and performing. She seeks emptiness as a way of letting go of the pre-defined and allowing multiple interpretations.
At the Heritage exhibition at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016 she presented a 'knitting performance' with aim to explore the physicality of knitting.
"The work explores knitting as a concept, whereby this heritage craft becomes a model of human relationships.
Two entities, working together, create a material. Two human bodies start moving to become knitting needles, the choreography of knitting unfolds into space and materialises into a story of two people collaborating"
Q&A with Alya Hessy
In what projects are you involved at this moment?
I am exploring new possibilities through collaborations with inspiring people. I am resear ching the meaning of craft through history and now. And I am still trying to figure out life, ha-ha!
Who are your artistic influences or inspirations and why?
Louise Bourgeois: incredibly consistent, stubborn and mischievous. Kenya Hara about the concept of emptiness as an opening of possibilities. Japanese spaces, gardens, poetry. Roland Barthes “ The Empire of Signs” – a collection of refined witty essays on various aspects of emptiness in Japanese culture.
Finding your own voice is difficult, where and how do you find your personal creativity (before you start designing; during the design process)?
I use my background in computer programming for collecting, analysing and dissecting data, extracting the essence. I combine it with an intuitive approach to feel the quality of the material and find a way of shaping it.
What do you want to communicate with your designs in general?
Make space.
Take your time.
Look. Listen.
Feel.
Can you tell us something about the project you presented at the FASHIONCLASH Festival? Together with a choreographer and my co-performer Pavlos Marios Ktoridis we will explore the physicality of knitting. It is a durational performance, which we performed during the Heritage Exhibition.
"A seemingly simple action, a whole range of human emotions, growing material: human relationship as a garment."
Why have you decided to participate at FASHIONCLASH Festival?
The topic Heritage triggered me, as for the performance (that will be shown on the festival) I work with an old heritage craft of knitting. In my work I strive for emptiness (multiple possibilities). It is exciting to place this work in yet another context, that of fashion.
More about Alya and her work here: http://www.alyahessy.com
Nida Gönül at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016
On Reimagining Footwear with the Zembil Method and Innovative Materials
'With A Twist' focuses on reimagining contemporary luxury footwear construction and components through employing 'Zembil', a heritage basketry technique from Bafra. in north of Turkey. The original basket making technique dates back to approximately 250 years and is a complete non-waste process using corn husk, a by-product of local farming industry as the cover material.
To create the collection, this plant fiber was replaced by sustainable and innovative materials suited to footwear production; the bacteria spun tissue cellulose tissue, Kombucha leather and %100 Bio-degradable man-made leather innovation from Turkey for uppersand recycled bicycle inner tubes for the soles. Like the baskets inspiring the collection, each shoe is a single unit construction that is made with a continous weave wrapped on a continuous base, combining the upper and the sole together in one unit.
nidagonul.co.uk
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| http://blogs.arts.ac.uk/fashion/2016/01/27/ma-footwear-graduate-nidal-gonul-creates-sustainable-footwear-single-thread/ |
Javier Durango at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016
by Javier Durango
Gestos Auríferos (auriferous gestures) consist of a series of conceptual and sculptural pieces for the hands, that portray: the story of the artisanal gold miner Américo Asprilla, his connection with the earth, his gold extraction ritual, his labor sacrifice and the importance of his hands. Auriferous gestures, intends to raise awareness towards the importance of the artisanal gold mining extraction, our artisan miners and the vulnerable afro descendent community from the Colombian Pacific.
The Barequeo or artisanal gold mining in “Agua Clara” (Colombian Pacific village) is a family extraction tradition that has as a priority to preserve the environment. This practice has passed from generation to generation, from the first Afro community in the country and has now become essential in their cultural heritage. All their social, economic and even spiritual activities are linked to Barequeo, making it their life nucleus and becoming part of their identity as a community. This traditional method of gold extraction from an almost forgotten community should be seen as an example for others to follow and as a viable solution for an overexploiting industry blind sighted by ambition.
Emiliana Pontonutti at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016
'Unlocked' by Emiliana Pontonutti at Heritage exhibition at FASHIONCLASH Festival
"Unlocked is a research inside the concept of beauty and fetish via the hair. The reason that leads me to investigate this material comes from the natural properties of hair. It may be a seductive element on the head but at the same time it has the ability to create disgust or perversion when viewed as waste, for example in the mouth, in the bath drain or on the floor. My research into fetishism, artefacts, surrealism and beauty have resulted in a multiplicity of objects and conceptual shoes. Some have been developed into “wearable” shoes while others are produced solely as functional art objects.
My work aims to overturn the classical idea of shoes through the introduction of innovative and extreme materials, creating objects and shoes with specific functions where human hair is the vehicle. The resulting objects serve as an example of new functional possibilities in the approach or in the construction of shoes. Through this process I tried to visualize how objects can become an element on a shoe while others are made to be more sculptural artefacts."
Emiliana is an Italian footwear designer based in London. First she did her BA in Fashion Design in Italy at I.U.A.V and later she specialized in footwear completing her Master degree in Footwear at London College of Fashion in 2016. Emiliana is fascinated by anything that stimulates her imagination and constantly in search of new emotions.
Photography by Team Peter Stigter
"Unlocked is a research inside the concept of beauty and fetish via the hair. The reason that leads me to investigate this material comes from the natural properties of hair. It may be a seductive element on the head but at the same time it has the ability to create disgust or perversion when viewed as waste, for example in the mouth, in the bath drain or on the floor. My research into fetishism, artefacts, surrealism and beauty have resulted in a multiplicity of objects and conceptual shoes. Some have been developed into “wearable” shoes while others are produced solely as functional art objects.
My work aims to overturn the classical idea of shoes through the introduction of innovative and extreme materials, creating objects and shoes with specific functions where human hair is the vehicle. The resulting objects serve as an example of new functional possibilities in the approach or in the construction of shoes. Through this process I tried to visualize how objects can become an element on a shoe while others are made to be more sculptural artefacts."
Emiliana is an Italian footwear designer based in London. First she did her BA in Fashion Design in Italy at I.U.A.V and later she specialized in footwear completing her Master degree in Footwear at London College of Fashion in 2016. Emiliana is fascinated by anything that stimulates her imagination and constantly in search of new emotions.
Photography by Team Peter Stigter
Jivika Biervliet at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016
For this collection Jivika was inspired by her my Indian roots, translating it into daring color palette, drapings, silhouettes and styling.
Q&A with Jivika Biervliet
When did you realise you wanted to be a fashion designer?
It actually happened very accidentally. When I was 18 I subscribed for an art contest and chose to design a fashion collection while I had never designed anything. So I just did it and teached myself really quickly how to sew, and then I won (it was a really bad collection). After that I did and entrance exam at the HKU and in 2010 I graduated in the course Fashion Communication. Right after that I started to focus on menswear.
In what projects are you involved at this moment? It's something really cool and such a big honor. Ruben, the shoe designer I'd worked together with for FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015 edition, asked me to design his wedding suit. He's going to marry in September!
I believe fashion is about freedom, it's a way to express ourselves without words
Who are your artistic influences or inspirations and why?
I always listen to hiphop, the whole day, every day, so I believe this influences me because it brings me in the right mood.
Finding your own voice is difficult, where and how do you find your personal creativity (before you start designing; during the design process)?
It happens in my head and starts with a feeling which I want to share and just start. And I really need to be alone during the start so I can work from my intuition.
What challenges did you face during the design process? Working with colors!
Most of the times I work with black. I also always wear black and think in black silhouettes so it was quite a challenge to do this differently. I started with not wearing black. People who know me and saw me walking with all these colors got confused, haha
What do you want to communicate with your designs in general? No rules
Can you tell something about the collection you presented at the FASHIONCLASH Festival? This time I will collaborate again with jewelry/accessory designer Peter Hsieh, we have also worked together for the 2015 edition. It will be colorfull and shiny, with Indian influences.
Why have you decided to participate again at FASHIONCLASH Festival?
Because it's always too much fun, it's inspiring and they offer us many opportunities. This is the fifth time I participate at FCF, third time with a show.
Men, colors and good vibes!
Can you tell us something about your heritage?
My parents are from Suriname, my mother has Indian roots and my father is completely mixed. I am raised with Hinduism and Catholicism and believe everything is on.
How is the theme Heritage related to your work (can be also preferred to previous work)?
For this collection I was inspired by my Indian roots, you can find this back in the colors, the drapings, the silhouettes and the styling.
If you could trade your heritage, for what would you trade it?
I wouldn't trade it, I appreciate it that I'm raised with different cultures. I think this is also a great thing from The Netherlands, that so many different cultures are living together in such a small country. Only thing which I think it's really sad, that there is still not acceptance everywhere between these cultures, while we can learn so much from each other.
Vegan, vegetarian, healthy diet or any food will do?
Vegetarian.
What’s your favourite song, food and movie at the moment?
All time favourite song: D'Angelo - Cruisin', this is also my alarm to wake up.
Favourite food: Chocolate sorbet ice cream.
Favourite Movie: E.T. & Gone Girl.
What is your bad habit?
I can miss people very badly, it can be so bad that I dream about someone every night for months.
What’s your favourite city? Amsterdam, because my sister and her kids live there.
What/Who do you miss the most when you are not at home?
My family, friends and the yoga classes.
Read more about Jivika and her brand: http://www.jivikabiervliet.com
All images Team Peter Stigter
Alan Vega
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| Suicide’s Alan Vega and Martin Rev |
Alan Vega, Suicide frontman and electronic music pioneer, dies aged 78
The group recorded five studio albums, Suicide (1977), Suicide: Alan Vega and Marin Rev (1980), A Way of Life (1988), Why Be Blue (1992) and American Supreme (2002).
Their self-titled 1977 album, which was recorded in four days, was No 39 on online music publication Pitchfork’s greatest albums of the 1970s list and Rolling Stone placed it on their list of the 500 greatest albums of all time.
Suicide’s aggressive synthesiser rock has been cited as an influence by bands such as Radiohead, U2, New Order and Depeche Mode, electronic acts such as Daft Punk and Aphex Twin, and Bruce Springsteen, who covered their song Dream Baby Dream on his 2014 album, High Hopes.
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| Alan Vega |
Karim Adduchi - Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Amsterdam
Just one year after the graduation from Rietveld Academy, his striking approach to mix his Berber heritage with fashion design, got him favoured by the audience.
Inspired by the traditional clothing of the Berber culture Karim showcased a beauty of the multicultural world, providing a new proposal for the contemporary women with a somehow forced strive for modernity.
It is exactly his approach that makes him one-to-watch in the Dutch fashion scene, expressing perhaps what is missing sometimes in the Dutch fashion scene; the richness of the multicultural society.
My problem is only, although this was a beautiful opening show, is it responsible to give young designers such a big stage in the very early phase of their carreer. We have seen often designers overdesigning and multiplying the collection to provide enough content. Most of them vanish after one or two seasons. Perhaps a smaller collection with more focus would have given him more attention for his talent? Eventually we wish for the talented designer not only to jump but to fly from the springboards we provide.
http://karimadduchi.com
Thursday, 14 July 2016
Eliran Nargassi - Spring Summer 2017
Saturday Night
The collection for SS17 is the third collection that revolves around religion and secularism. The SS17 collection was inspired by the moment that separated between the holiness of the Sabbath and the weekdays, according to the Jewish religion. While designing the collection I tried to illustrate the transition to the weekdays and the return to the work routine through the textile I chose for the collection which is mostly Denim and more subtle variations in forms of Cotton, Linen and other natural materials that characterize Denim. In order to emphasize the holiness of the Sabbath I used a tailored, festive and clean language, one that characterizes the Sabbath.
Lookbook credits
Photographer: Merav Ben Loullou
Model: Tor Vardimon Gudnason
http://www.elirannargassi.com
The collection for SS17 is the third collection that revolves around religion and secularism. The SS17 collection was inspired by the moment that separated between the holiness of the Sabbath and the weekdays, according to the Jewish religion. While designing the collection I tried to illustrate the transition to the weekdays and the return to the work routine through the textile I chose for the collection which is mostly Denim and more subtle variations in forms of Cotton, Linen and other natural materials that characterize Denim. In order to emphasize the holiness of the Sabbath I used a tailored, festive and clean language, one that characterizes the Sabbath.
Lookbook credits
Photographer: Merav Ben Loullou
Model: Tor Vardimon Gudnason
http://www.elirannargassi.com
Marija Kulušić at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016
Meet Marija Kulušić, the award winning and promising fashion designer from Croatia. She graduated from the University of Zagreb Faculty of Textile Technology with an MA in costume design. She showed her latest collection "Layer on" at the FASHIONCLASH Festival in Maastricht.
Unlike many designers from Eestern Europe, Marija has a modern approach for contemporary women's wear. By deconstructing garments she created a layered collection that offers multiple options to the wearer. She used materials like cashmere, cotton, viscose, satin, and velour.
Q&A with Marija Kulušić
How was your experience at FASHIONCLASH Festival?
There are no better words than fashion clash to describe FASHIONCLASH Festival, and that's what I loved the most. So many various aestetics in one place, so many talented, positive and supportive people. Designers who support and help each other, that is something you can't find so easy these days.
Can you tell something about the collection you presented at the FASHIONCLASH Festival?
"Layer on" collection deals with the human body and especially with the surface of the body- skin. Changes of the skin, chronic and temporary conditions such as vitiligo, stitches, wrinkles, etc. The human body is transitioned into the different shapes. Layered garments are complemented with belts that allow various ways to wear them. Various hand-made techinques are included in the collection such as dyeing fabrics, eyelets and silk ruffles shaped by hand.
What are your plans for near future?
I am not the one who makes certain plans and hold on to it. I prefer to go day by day and see where it gets me but I will expand my horizont, look abroad for opportunities. At the moment I know for sure that I will work on developing my brand in the near future; that is the main thing.
http://marijakulusic.com
All images by Team Peter Stigter
Unlike many designers from Eestern Europe, Marija has a modern approach for contemporary women's wear. By deconstructing garments she created a layered collection that offers multiple options to the wearer. She used materials like cashmere, cotton, viscose, satin, and velour.
Q&A with Marija Kulušić
How was your experience at FASHIONCLASH Festival?
There are no better words than fashion clash to describe FASHIONCLASH Festival, and that's what I loved the most. So many various aestetics in one place, so many talented, positive and supportive people. Designers who support and help each other, that is something you can't find so easy these days.
Can you tell something about the collection you presented at the FASHIONCLASH Festival?
"Layer on" collection deals with the human body and especially with the surface of the body- skin. Changes of the skin, chronic and temporary conditions such as vitiligo, stitches, wrinkles, etc. The human body is transitioned into the different shapes. Layered garments are complemented with belts that allow various ways to wear them. Various hand-made techinques are included in the collection such as dyeing fabrics, eyelets and silk ruffles shaped by hand.
What are your plans for near future?
I am not the one who makes certain plans and hold on to it. I prefer to go day by day and see where it gets me but I will expand my horizont, look abroad for opportunities. At the moment I know for sure that I will work on developing my brand in the near future; that is the main thing.
http://marijakulusic.com
All images by Team Peter Stigter
Tuesday, 12 July 2016
TING GONG at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016
Meet the Amsterdam based Chinese designer Ting Gong. She graduated cum laude from BA at Gerrit Rietveld Academie in 2015 and gained experience during her internship at Melitta Baumeister in New York.
She presented a stunning collection with a performance installation by placing a white cube of lights on the catwalk.
White Cube is a continuation project of “________ That Disappears”.
For more information about TING GONG: http://www.ting-gong.com
She presented a stunning collection with a performance installation by placing a white cube of lights on the catwalk.
White Cube is a continuation project of “________ That Disappears”.
For more information about TING GONG: http://www.ting-gong.com
LAU - By Laura Verdonk
Dutch designer Laura Verdonk graduated from the University of the Arts Utrecht' (HKU) in 2015 and at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016 she presented her brand new collection 'Benjamin' under her label 'LAU by Laura Verdonk. In her collection she combines playful elements and humorous approach to menswear while playing with menswear codes.
http://www.laubylauraverdonk.com
http://www.laubylauraverdonk.com
Sofya Samareva at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016
Sofya Samareva, one of the winners of designSUPERMARKET Prague is mostly known as a hat designer, at FASHIONCLASH Festival she presented a collection 'Medieval Pajamas', playing with shapes of hats while making a whole outfit. The result is a surprising play of silhouettes and shapes.
http://sofyasamareva.com
http://sofyasamareva.com
Monday, 11 July 2016
MAFAD Graduation Show 2016
| Maarten van Mulken |
MAFAD Graduation Show featured only five graduates but all of them presented interesting collections, in fact some of them where among the highlight of the FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016. Maarten van Mulken and Domino Vugts where both finalists at the Lichting Show.
Maarten van Mulken aims to challange the wearer to think and not just consume. He drew inspiration from the ‘autarkic egos’ of people, the term invented by philosopher Ayn Rand who states that someone who holds an idea doesn’t change that to please other people. It’s a person who makes his own rational choices and thinks before he acts.
' I try to let my designs embody an idea, shaped into a form that clashes two worlds. On one hand it’s clothing that is well crafted, and on the other, it brings a statement that should raise questions with the audience about how they make their decisions in buying clothes. They cannot just be beautiful pieces of clothing, they have to give the viewer something to think about.'
With my collection I wanted to transform opinions people have towards consumption. I wanted to create my own resistance army of aggressive women that embody this idea. They choose for themselves and will not yield their ideas to anybody. At the start of my design process I cut up a lot of army clothing and rearranged it in a new order to show the ridiculousness of how fashion makes clothing that’s rather impractical to wear. I chose army clothing for multiple reasons, but mostly because army clothing is practical and by cutting it up the practical side gets lost. From that point on, I wanted to work with patterns that save fabric in cutting, but because of that you lose even more fabric in a piece of clothing. Normally making patterns for garments produces a lot of wasted fabric, in my collection I instead create patterns that use the whole width of the fabric, which does not allow for waste. However, the design keeps all the lost fabric on the body, so in the end much more fabric is used compared to a conventional way of construction. This could trigger the audience to question their views on overconsumption in fashion.'
Domino Vugts aimed to design a women's collection with elements from Formula 1 racing aesthetic. 'I see Formula 1 as a very cool, powerful and high speed sport, but also as a field which is still dominated by men. Currently there are no female drivers in the Formula 1 racing teams. I find this shocking. I believe that women are fully empowered to work in every field they want so it makes me sad to see the opposite. In this racing sport men are seen as winners and heroes whereas women are seen as sensual objects. I believe this has to change! Women are not mere decoration; women are individuals with visions, focus and strength. My collection reflects what I think women could be, if they dare. I playfully want to challenge women to step out of their comfort zone and dare to be the heroines and winners I know they are. She who dares, wins.'
Ilona Simons presented a promising menswear proposal with her collection 'I am I man', Mia Wolff Metternich presented a collection based on textile design and Victoria Keller melted the hearts of the audience with a kids collection, not only with adorable models but also with a good collection.
www.mafad.nl
All images by brankopopovicblog
Lichting 2016
For the last 10 years the Lichting was the highlight of the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Amsterdam, providing a fertile platform for Dutch fashion talent. The 10th edition, the anniversary edition was not any different. In fact the level of Dutch fashion graduates is growing and that is just wonderful.
This edition was even more special to me. Marlou Breuls, the Audience Award winner, was my very first intern and a prove that hard work and dedication pays off. The main price of 10.000 was awarded to her talented fellow Amfi graduate, Danial Aitouganov.
Some of my favorite collections where from the KABK The Hague graduates Woody 's-Gravemade and Nadie Borggreve but also Maarten van Mulken and Domino Vugts from MAFAD Maastricht. In fact all designers deserved to be there. The Lichting features 14 graduates from the 7 academies in the The Netherlands.
Lichting was founded in 2007 to bridge the gap between the academy graduates and the fashion industry. Lichting is a selection of the very best of each of Holland’s seven fashion academies. Attended by fashion professionals and international jury panel, Lichting is a big platform for emerging talents.
Lichting 2015 finalists: Marlou Breuls, Danial Aitouganov, Maarten van Mulken, Domino Vugts, Yoko Maja, Woody 's-Gravemade, Nadie Borggreve, Suzanne Barten, Ailene van Elmpt, Marianna Ladreyt, Laure Meyers, Kim Kivits, Johanna Bas Becker, Alissa van Duijn
http://www.lichting.nl
All images are by brankopopovicblog
This edition was even more special to me. Marlou Breuls, the Audience Award winner, was my very first intern and a prove that hard work and dedication pays off. The main price of 10.000 was awarded to her talented fellow Amfi graduate, Danial Aitouganov.
Some of my favorite collections where from the KABK The Hague graduates Woody 's-Gravemade and Nadie Borggreve but also Maarten van Mulken and Domino Vugts from MAFAD Maastricht. In fact all designers deserved to be there. The Lichting features 14 graduates from the 7 academies in the The Netherlands.
Lichting was founded in 2007 to bridge the gap between the academy graduates and the fashion industry. Lichting is a selection of the very best of each of Holland’s seven fashion academies. Attended by fashion professionals and international jury panel, Lichting is a big platform for emerging talents.
Lichting 2015 finalists: Marlou Breuls, Danial Aitouganov, Maarten van Mulken, Domino Vugts, Yoko Maja, Woody 's-Gravemade, Nadie Borggreve, Suzanne Barten, Ailene van Elmpt, Marianna Ladreyt, Laure Meyers, Kim Kivits, Johanna Bas Becker, Alissa van Duijn
http://www.lichting.nl
All images are by brankopopovicblog
10 years of Lichting
| Bastian Visch |
During the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Amsterdam all winners of the past 10 years of the Lichting where showcased. In this exhibition there where also looks from also other finalists, making it a nice trip down memory lane of the last 10 years of the one of the most relevant platforms for Dutch fashion talent.
To name a few names; Bastian Visch, David Laport, Marije de Haan, Duran Lantink, Ann Boogaerts, and Sanne Schepers who is now one of the creative minds behind the successful brands FUTURA.
Sunday, 10 July 2016
Ieva Mezule - FASHIONCLASH Festival
Meet Ieva Mezule from Latvia, a graduate from the Art Academy of Latvia.
“It’s important for me to create things, without crushing the boundary between art and fashion. The story has a important role in creating something new, it defines the need to understand the depth of the whole.”
She presented a striking conceptual collection 'Othersphere' at FASHIONCLASH Festival.
'The conceptual meaning of the collection associates with a other sphere /dimension, a thought up space, where 8 human like characters try to see them in a different way, also finding a way to survive by not destroying everything around them. The character of the collection is man, who could be a sacral creature, for example a monk from a futuristic planet. He has a bright mind, charisma and goodness.'
All images by Team Peter Stigter
“It’s important for me to create things, without crushing the boundary between art and fashion. The story has a important role in creating something new, it defines the need to understand the depth of the whole.”
She presented a striking conceptual collection 'Othersphere' at FASHIONCLASH Festival.
'The conceptual meaning of the collection associates with a other sphere /dimension, a thought up space, where 8 human like characters try to see them in a different way, also finding a way to survive by not destroying everything around them. The character of the collection is man, who could be a sacral creature, for example a monk from a futuristic planet. He has a bright mind, charisma and goodness.'
All images by Team Peter Stigter
8CUFF at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016
Q&A with Sue Suh
When did you realise you wanted to be a fashion designer?
Two years ago, when I realised that I can communicate through the collection.
What are your main achievements in your career at this moment?
I used to run a bar and a cafe before studying fashion.
How would you define fashion?
Communication.
Who are your artistic influences or inspirations and why?
Everyone around me or I encounter, the fact that individual have different idea and perspective inspires me in all kinds of way.
Finding your own voice is difficult, where and how do you find your personal creativity (before you start designing; during the design process)?
I think I am still learning that, I try to think of an object from what I have seen (movie, book, news anything!! ) and reflect myself as well as the world that I'm living in and infuse and justify my opinion on it.
What challenges did you face during the design process?
Literally having no idea when you really need to activate your brain.
Can you tell us something about the project you will present at the FASHIONCLASH Festival?
The collection's title is Surreal Obsession, which is visioning about uncertainty, anxiety, false desire and obsession.
What does your collection try to communicate (what is it about)?
Our loop of being anxious about something we desire and we follow the path with shit loads of questions which is normal to be, its the human nature because the world we live in is fucked up, and it will never change.
WOFF ROAR GRRRRR.
‘Food’ will do.
What is your bad habit?
Recently Im playing my childhood games, cs…
Are you a people's person or a loner?
Loner.
Do you have a pet?
YESSS DOGGGGGG.
What’s your favourite city?
Barcelona, Berlin, Hong Kong.
What/Who do you miss the most when you are not at home?
iMac and my husband
Alessandro Trincone at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016
Meet talented Italian designer Alessandro Trincone, the winner of the FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016 Talent Award.
Alessandro graduated with with honors from POLIMODA International Institute. His graduation collection Kings and Queens, was selected to be the best of POLIMODA’s graduation class of 2015. Following he took a scholarship at “Osaka Bunka Fashion College” in Japan. From then on, the Japanese culture has been a huge source of inspiration for his designs.
This is shown in his new collection: 'Annodami', which talks about his own experience with oppression and self fulfillment.
When did you realise you wanted to be a fashion designer? How long have you been designing clothing?
I am designing clothes from 4 years and I realize that I wanted to be a fashion designer at an age of only 18. I said “ok, let’s try it” and then I understood that this way was my right way, my world, my dream and my passion.
What are your main achievements in your career at this moment?
Right now I am trying to find some internships to grow more as a person and to learn more.
How would you define fashion?
You can express yourself through fashion.
Who are your artistic influences or inspirations and why?
Thom Browne, because he likes to play with menswear, just like I do.
What do you want to communicate with your designs in general?
With my designs I want to communicate that everyone has to express themselves and has to be themselves. No scare, no discrimination, nothing. We are all the same thing.
What is you collection you presented at the FASHIONCLASH Festival about?
“Annodami” talks about my own experience with oppression and self fulfillment. Being raised in a socially rough environment, it has always been a challenging issue to express myself; I have gradually understood the importance of loving yourself as it is the only real protection from “evilness”. I believe we are only able to stand against fear with a crystal clear reflection of our inner selves .
The visual translation of this idea is mainly connected to Japan and its iconography, such as the Ban Gasa, sushi and the Japanese flag. Through the study of the Kosode trousers and traditional kimonos I built a bridge between my Napolitan sartorial heritage and the Nippon culture, a culture clash expressed through overly draped garments, very tight waists, knots and bows. The emphasis on the waist expresses my idea of protection, redefining tightness as a synonym of strength.
The androgynous identity of my inspirational garments reinforces my belief of no-gender boundaries between men and women. The feminine side of every male is explicitly shown through the whole col- lection, hoping to introduce a new meaning of masculinity, far from the traditional imagery society has carried through time.
All images by Team Peter Stigter
Alessandro graduated with with honors from POLIMODA International Institute. His graduation collection Kings and Queens, was selected to be the best of POLIMODA’s graduation class of 2015. Following he took a scholarship at “Osaka Bunka Fashion College” in Japan. From then on, the Japanese culture has been a huge source of inspiration for his designs.
This is shown in his new collection: 'Annodami', which talks about his own experience with oppression and self fulfillment.
When did you realise you wanted to be a fashion designer? How long have you been designing clothing?
I am designing clothes from 4 years and I realize that I wanted to be a fashion designer at an age of only 18. I said “ok, let’s try it” and then I understood that this way was my right way, my world, my dream and my passion.
What are your main achievements in your career at this moment?
Right now I am trying to find some internships to grow more as a person and to learn more.
How would you define fashion?
You can express yourself through fashion.
Who are your artistic influences or inspirations and why?
Thom Browne, because he likes to play with menswear, just like I do.
What do you want to communicate with your designs in general?
With my designs I want to communicate that everyone has to express themselves and has to be themselves. No scare, no discrimination, nothing. We are all the same thing.
What is you collection you presented at the FASHIONCLASH Festival about?
“Annodami” talks about my own experience with oppression and self fulfillment. Being raised in a socially rough environment, it has always been a challenging issue to express myself; I have gradually understood the importance of loving yourself as it is the only real protection from “evilness”. I believe we are only able to stand against fear with a crystal clear reflection of our inner selves .
The visual translation of this idea is mainly connected to Japan and its iconography, such as the Ban Gasa, sushi and the Japanese flag. Through the study of the Kosode trousers and traditional kimonos I built a bridge between my Napolitan sartorial heritage and the Nippon culture, a culture clash expressed through overly draped garments, very tight waists, knots and bows. The emphasis on the waist expresses my idea of protection, redefining tightness as a synonym of strength.
The androgynous identity of my inspirational garments reinforces my belief of no-gender boundaries between men and women. The feminine side of every male is explicitly shown through the whole col- lection, hoping to introduce a new meaning of masculinity, far from the traditional imagery society has carried through time.
All images by Team Peter Stigter
Emilie Thirion at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016
With her playful take on menswear she caught attention by the audience.
Curious to know more about Emilie, please read the Q&A.
When did you realize you wanted to be a fashion designer?
Very late actually, only a few days before I entered my fashion school. Before that, I enter an architecture and engineering school which I had prepared for and dreamt of since I was 6 years old. Finally I found out this wasn’t my life at all. I was looking for something more human, more creative, more authentic. I remember saying to myself “You have always wanted to be an architect-engineer and it’s a real disaster, why not trying something completely different and very surprising? Maybe that is the key to happiness : a spontaneous and adventurous life.” Two days after, I started my fashion courses, and it was the perfect match! Now it’s been 4 years since I started making fashion design, and it’s my life.
What are your main achievements in your career at this moment?
Simply having the audacity to stand out and begin it (my career).
In what projects are you involved at this moment?
The launch of my brand, the production of the collection “Big Boy Lost in the big City Life” (the one I will show during the festival) for a shop in Japan and the creation of the next one. I am also involved in a contest “Urban Craft” which the aim is to highlight the manual craft.
How would you define fashion?
A wearable emotion, a way to move people. Emotions are everywhere, they just need to be seen and felt, why not wearing it?
SANCHEZ-KANE at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016
Meet Barbara Sanchez Kane, a Mexican born fashion designer, focused on menswear inspired by her mexican heritage. In 2010 she completed her first degree in industrial engineering from Universidad Anahuac. Five years later she graduated from from Polimoda in Florence. She did an intership at at Bernhard Willhelm in Los Angeles. Eventually she launched a brand SANCHEZ-KANE and presented her latest collection 'Sanchez-Kane for Tforthree' during FASHIONCLASH Festival.
Barbara presented a menswear collection with a strong narrative, telling a story about her Mexican heritage but also confronting societal issues. The collection is as playful as political and at the same a display of a promising fashion brand.
Q&A with Barbara Sanchez Kane
When did you realize you wanted to be a fashion designer?
I loved to style myself even in my small town… got a couple of stares from time to time. I ended up studying engineering as it was expected form me, but it never felt quite real. Somewhere in the middle of my BA I had some health problems that just made me change 360 my standing point. Talked to my family about wanting to study fashion and they supported me only if I finished engineering, so I did! Graduated from fashion design from Polimoda in and have been designing ever since.
What are your main achievements in your career at this moment?
Presented with Polimoda during PITTI UOMO Internship with Bernhard Willhelm in los Angeles. Presented in LA Fashion Week under sanchez-kane Art / collaboration with Michael Willet Finalist with T for Three in Milan (fashion incubator) 200 emerging designers to watch by Vogue Italy Mexican designers to follow by ID Mexico
In what projects are you involved at this moment?
TX3 in Milan. Fashion incubator and SANCHEZ-KANE brand.
Barbara presented a menswear collection with a strong narrative, telling a story about her Mexican heritage but also confronting societal issues. The collection is as playful as political and at the same a display of a promising fashion brand.
Q&A with Barbara Sanchez Kane
When did you realize you wanted to be a fashion designer?
I loved to style myself even in my small town… got a couple of stares from time to time. I ended up studying engineering as it was expected form me, but it never felt quite real. Somewhere in the middle of my BA I had some health problems that just made me change 360 my standing point. Talked to my family about wanting to study fashion and they supported me only if I finished engineering, so I did! Graduated from fashion design from Polimoda in and have been designing ever since.
What are your main achievements in your career at this moment?
Presented with Polimoda during PITTI UOMO Internship with Bernhard Willhelm in los Angeles. Presented in LA Fashion Week under sanchez-kane Art / collaboration with Michael Willet Finalist with T for Three in Milan (fashion incubator) 200 emerging designers to watch by Vogue Italy Mexican designers to follow by ID Mexico
In what projects are you involved at this moment?
TX3 in Milan. Fashion incubator and SANCHEZ-KANE brand.
Folia performance at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016
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| picture by Team Peter Stigter |
Each year Project Sally Maastricht invites young choreographers during their Choreographic Residencies Program. Especially for the 8th edition of FASHIONCLASH Festival they assigned the talented French choreographer, Martin Harriague to create a new work.
For this performance Martin Harriague once again collaborated with with Maastricht based designer Mieke Kockelkorn. Last year they created Tabula Rasa
'Throughout history, cultural heritage has been threatened by the constant evolution of the world’s social and political concerns. Too often, the result of this threat has been the disappearance of some of the world’s greatest cultural achievements.'
Folia is inspired by the traditions and history of the Iberian peninsula where Martin was born, creating a contemporary adaptation of ‘La Folia’ - a quick-paced, tumultuous dance dating back to the late 15th century.
Choreography : Martin Harriague
Costumes: Mieke Kockelkorn
Performed by: Patrizio Bucci, Luis Pedraza Cedrón
Production: Project Sally Maastrict
Folia is supported by Via Zuid
Saturday, 9 July 2016
One, no one, 100.000 by Lotte Milder
One, no one, 100.000 by Lotte Milder at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016
"Iemand, niemand, 100.000 (One, no one, 100.000)" is a multi-disciplinary project consisting of a performance (on and off the catwalk), a photo series and a short film. The première of the performance took place at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016.
The performance, inspired by Luigi Pirandello’s book, is about observing and judging the other(s). The performer searches, and comes to realise that she is not a single person, but numerous people in the consciousness of those around her. ‘’Seeing things with eyes that could not have known how they were being seen by others. Talking and understanding one another. Everybody assumed it to be true in their own way and claimed the concept to somehow, every day and in any way, give their life substance." Luigi Pirandello (1867 - 1936)
'One, no one, 100.000' is a visually stunning journey through heritage, a view on perception and stereotypes our minds create. Everything we see is always coloured by memories and experiences. So the question is, who we really are as basically everyone sees everyone differently. And in what manner is the self authentic. Lotte Milder has a strong language and a great sense for aesthetic. Also her performing talent deserves mention. With a great teamwork with Sophie Mantel and Karlijn Milder she presented a relevant performance but also a poetic story that really moved me.
With this graduation project Lotte showed great potential as a theatre maker with ability to translate conceptual narratives to meaningful performances.
A performance by Lotte Milder
Directed by Sophie Mantel
Performed by Lotte Milder
Video projections by Karlijn Milder
Photo by Karlijn Milder
Costume design by Lotte Milder
Costume made by Miralda Nijst-Reinartz
Supported by Via Zuid
https://lottemilder.wordpress.com
All images by Team Peter Stigter
"Iemand, niemand, 100.000 (One, no one, 100.000)" is a multi-disciplinary project consisting of a performance (on and off the catwalk), a photo series and a short film. The première of the performance took place at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016.
The performance, inspired by Luigi Pirandello’s book, is about observing and judging the other(s). The performer searches, and comes to realise that she is not a single person, but numerous people in the consciousness of those around her. ‘’Seeing things with eyes that could not have known how they were being seen by others. Talking and understanding one another. Everybody assumed it to be true in their own way and claimed the concept to somehow, every day and in any way, give their life substance." Luigi Pirandello (1867 - 1936)
'One, no one, 100.000' is a visually stunning journey through heritage, a view on perception and stereotypes our minds create. Everything we see is always coloured by memories and experiences. So the question is, who we really are as basically everyone sees everyone differently. And in what manner is the self authentic. Lotte Milder has a strong language and a great sense for aesthetic. Also her performing talent deserves mention. With a great teamwork with Sophie Mantel and Karlijn Milder she presented a relevant performance but also a poetic story that really moved me.
With this graduation project Lotte showed great potential as a theatre maker with ability to translate conceptual narratives to meaningful performances.
A performance by Lotte Milder
Directed by Sophie Mantel
Performed by Lotte Milder
Video projections by Karlijn Milder
Photo by Karlijn Milder
Costume design by Lotte Milder
Costume made by Miralda Nijst-Reinartz
Supported by Via Zuid
https://lottemilder.wordpress.com
All images by Team Peter Stigter
Mami Izumi performance at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016
'COTTON' a captivating dance performance by Mami Izumi/GOTRA at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016
'COTTON' is a solo performance on the intersection of dance, installation and fashion. By using design, (visual) poetry and movement, Mami Izumi (Japan, 1987) performed a sample of her solo project COTTON.
Being inspired by the weaving machine and the production of cotton, she is interested to lay bare the tension between the human body and the mechanics we use to manufacture our needs. Mami Izumi found a close creative partner in this process with Maastricht based fashion designer Verena Klein, who designed the costume of COTTON. ‘cotton [sample c6283-01]’ was presented during FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016, the full performance of COTTON will be presented during Musica Sacra Performing Arts Festival in Maastricht on 16, 17 and 18 September 2016.
Concept & choreography: Mami Izumi
Costume: Verena Klein
Installation design: Joost Vrouenraets & Mami Izumi
Videography: Simon Bus
Production: GOTRA
Direction: Joost Vrouenraets
Stage technic: Marq Claessens
Website: www.mamiizumi.com
Mami Izumi is supporterd by VIA ZUID
All images by brankopopovicblog
Wednesday, 6 July 2016
CLASH Project 2016
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| Bubble Boner - Adrianus Kundert |
10 non-fashion designers translated their vision on fashion into an ‘out-of-the-box’ outfit for the catwalk at FASHIONCLASH Festival.
Since the beginning of FASHIONCLASH Festival in 2009, Clash Project each year invites 10 young artists and designers to translate their work into a wearable piece for the catwalk. Participants from different art and design disciplines (all non-fashion designers) are challenged to transfer their practice, both materially and conceptually, to a fashion outfit. It is an invitation to come out of the comfort zone, to play and experiment.
For the 2016 edition the participants are asked to take the theme of Heritage in consideration, whether personal or the heritage of their practice.
Clash Project is an initiative by FASHIONCLASH foundation and is presented during FASHIONCLASH Festival in Maastricht.
More information about FASHIONCLASH: www.fashionclash.nl
Clash Project 2016 Participants
Adrianus Kundert – designer – The Netherlands
Ditte Trudslev Jensen – jewelry designer – Denmark
Marit van Heumen – jewelry designer – The Netherlands
YuYeon Cho – artist – USA
Daniela Treija – multidisciplinary designer – Latvia
Sophie Vermeulen – artist – The Netherlands
Julian Komosa – product designer – UK
Sander Wassink & Ronald Smits – designer | photographer – The Netherlands
Alexandre de Vos – spatial designer – The Netherlands
Amber Veel – autonomous designer – The Netherlands
Credits
Art direction: FC artistic directors
Catwalk photography: Team Peter Stigter
Studio photography: Sem Shayne
Tuesday, 5 July 2016
Heritage Show + Talk at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016
| Aine Katrina Byrne |
After the talk there were performances by Muslin Brothers and Uta Bekaia.
Studio Dennis Vanderbroeck took us around the world through the work of Aine Katrina Byrne (UK), Hana Frisonsova (Czech Republic), Laetitia Lemaire (France), Juliëtte Heijnen (Netherlands), Uta Bekaia (USA/Georgia), Muslin Brothers (Israel), Natalie Dawson (UK), Pavlína Miklasová (Czech Republic), PETITEÉ (Czech Republic) and Exploring Inspirations project designers who explored Serbian old crafts techniques.
Kevin Murphy did the hairstyling and M.A.C Cosmetics the make-up.
Take a look at the picture report. All images are by Team Peter Stigter.
Monday, 4 July 2016
Highlights of FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016
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| Ieva Mezule |
During this 4-day festival over more than 150 young fashion designers and (performing)artists from 30 different countries were given a platform for their work. This festival is a unique opportunity to get inspired by the art of fashion and to discover new talents. The program consisted of Fashion shows, Exhibitions, Performances, a Designer Market, Fashion Talks, Awards, MAFAD Graduation Show and more. This year’s festival theme was HERITAGE: a celebration of cultural diversity, which included special events such as the Heritage Exhibition, the Heritage Show and the Spot On! Opening event.
'Spot On! Celebration of Diversity’
Unlike the previous editions, the festival opened with the theatrical and festive evening called 'Spot On! Celebration of Diversity’. The evening was directed by theater director Joost Horward and Nina Willems and with the cooperation with students from the Maastricht Theatre Academy. It was an evening where fashion clashed with theater, dance and music, but also an evening with a political statement to honor brotherhood, addressing the current state of mind in Europe. The finale ended with lyrics of John Donne's "No Man is an Island ' along the tune of "Alle Menschen werden Brüder". In this show there where ethnical costumes from the students of the Antwerp Fashion department and the KABK The Hague, costumes from Tiel Janssen and work of designers like Markéta Mrtišková, Uta Bekaia and Linda Friesen.
| Markéta Mrtišková |
Before the party took off at the SAMdecorfabriek, the Saturday program was festively concluded with the Awards Show. Three awards were presented. Chapeau Magazine Award for best MAFAD graduation collection was won by Domino Vughts. Kaltblut Magazine Award went to Hermione Flynn. The main prize, the FASHIONCLASH Festvial Talent Award 2016, was presented by the mayor of Maastricht to Alessandro Trincone from Italy. The jury panel of Amandine Piango(NJAL), Carlo Wijnands and Marlo Saalmink had the difficult task to choose a winner from many participants of the festival.
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| Alessandro Trincone, winner FASHIONCLASH Festival 2016 talent award |
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