Łódź Young Fashion Award

Łódź Young Fashion Award

Thanks to a contribution by Pasarella Photography

What a great news, city of Łódź strikes back!
After unfortunate end of the FashionPhilosophy Fashion Week Poland, it was rather silent in the Polish fashion scene.
 Łódź Young Fashion is a brand new event in the city of Łódź in Poland initiated by the Academy of Fine Arts of Łódz with focus on young designers.
The event featured Łódź Young Fashion Award, a show with 15 talented designers from all over the world. Among them FASHIONCLASH Festival 2017 Talent Award winner Federico Cina and participant Sandra Stachura. Chen Zhi from China is the winner of the Łódź Young Fashion Award 2017 (30.000 euro money prize).

Łódź Young Fashion Award Finalists:
Aleksandra Seweryniak, Anja Medle, Chen Zhi, Frederico Cina, Jan Chodorowicz, Karolina Mikołajczyk, Katarzyna Kryst, Kinga Kasinska, Manuel Noriega Torres, Renāte Vītola, Sandra Stachura, Szymon Mrózek, Uta Sienkiewicz, Stefan Kartchev, Laima Jurca


Read more about Łódź Young Fashion on Pasarella Stories

All images by Pasarella Photography 
https://pasarella.eu

KOLOVRAT - ModaLisboa Luz SS2018

KOLOVRAT - RITUAL - SS 2018

RITUAL

The primordial: a time when the ancestors channeled messages from the Gods ...

Ritual ... Presenting something that came embedded from an old primordial society talking to a new one. ..., while jumping and influencing the future, in terms of forming new ideas about losing patterns that are part of our social system.

In primitive societies, language and rituals would express their relationship with God and life, modern society became very casual, smart and practical. Facing this, maybe we need a new identity to theatricalize our lives and bring meaning into the picture.
Kolovrat continues to rely on deconstruction, mixing different styles and materials, creating a code that classifies who you are, what culture you love, which tribe you belong to. Asymmetrical and oversized outerwear has been constructed from two garments joined together and looped over one another. Coats opening in the back, with various proportions, also present in the hairstyles. The way the show will be presented will be a different kind of reality show, embracing all types of people, absurd and surrealistic spirit.

Kolovrat’s SS18 collection invokes ancient ritual practices to disrupt the modern and the rational, embracing vulnerability, enchantment and shape-shifting ...

http://www.lidijakolovrat.com

Aleksandar Protic - ModaLisboa LUZ

ALEKSANDAR PROTIC | SS 18 - ModaLisboa LUZ

The “Pelagos” sculptures of Barbara Hepworth were the starting point for the spring/summer 2018 collection.
The holes and specially the connecting wires that are always present in her work are seen in the collection in a form of pleating and belts, which give support and change the piece’s shape. In some cases making free and organic forms and in other more strict, geometrical forms.

http://aleksandarprotic.eu

Nair Xavier x Diniz & Cruz - Moda Lisboa Luz

Nair Xavier x Diniz & Cruz
Spring Summer 2018 Moda Lisboa Luz

NGAKUYA 
This collection is a reflection on the ancestry, heritage and cultural survival of Afro-descendant people. Its background is the struggle for equality and the legacy of the revolutionary group, Black Panthers, in the 1970s.
Analyzing the adaptation, evolution and globalization, arises the question: How much of ourselves have we lost from generation to generation? The Maasai tribe comes as an answer. Africa is the cradle of the world and of ancestry. Despite evolution and globalization, the Maasai maintained their essence, customs and traditions through adaptation, being today one of the most persistent tribes in the African continent.
Through the affirmation of the Maasai identity and the struggle for equality of the Black Panther, as ancestral and cultural heritage of Afro-descendant individuals, NgaKUYAA is born.

https://www.nairxavier.com

David Ferreira - ModaLisboa SS 2018

David Ferreira presented the   Spring-Summer 2018 collection KARYUKAI FATUM at ModaLisboa LUZ.

This theatrical collection is a clash and marriage between Geisha and Fado, creating a parallel world of perfection, beauty and feelings. Geishas and Fado are two of the most mysterious and captivating art forms, hidden within the prostitution ring and created as entertainment for the status elite. Expression and perfection balance the “Karyūkai Fatum” collection, to create unique, structural, and seductive silhouettes that range from fitted to oversized pieces.

David Ferreira's aesthetic plays with the shape of the woman’s silhouette, creating a visual poetry that blurs the lines between elegance and grotesque. He worked for designers such as Iris Van Herpen, Meadham Kirchhoff and Giles Deacon which shaped his culture, skills and techniques in order to unfurl brand new silhouettes embodying a modern vision of the Couture concept. Defining uniqueness as the true meaning of luxury, Ferreira portraits the feeling of holding uniqueness in the highest regards.

www.davidferreiraofficial.com
instagram.com/davidhsf

Valentim Quaresma - ModaLisboa LUZ

Valentim Quaresma - ModaLisboa LUZ
Spring / Summer 2018 – CARNAL

Valentim's SS18 collection CARNAL is inspired by thoughts, feelings, and sensations. The guts of attraction and determination, strength and power. The fusion of lust and romanticism in an oriental environment.
www.valentimquaresma.com

Nuno Gama - The Globalist

Nuno Gama Spring / Summer 2018 – THE GLOBALIST

Nuno Gama unveiled his new collection for 2018 during ModaLisboa - Lisboa Fashion Week, paying a hommage to the rich Portuguese heritage. For SS2018, he took inspiration from the white and blue hues of traditional azulejos tiles. The show contained a doze of performance one can expect from Nuno Gama. Especially the stunning live music performance by musician Mike11 gave the show 'that' extra.

“With global warming and the continued deconstruction of the rules of the art of well dressing, we have evolved towards the reminiscent duality of classic formalism with the deconstruction of the rigid structure of the clothing and raw materials. The omnipresent coat, lighter than before, with a more simplified inner construction and a cross between opaque and translucent, between short and long, and the inner layers remind us of watery tiles that poetically multiply themselves in rhythmic shades of blue, from the deep Atlantic to the exuberant cobalt colors and the luminous multi-layers that blend with each other in a dance of “watery” blues, contrasting with the white, second by second, in the bright Lisbon sky.”

The tile is the starting point for the concept of “refreshment”, tonal and graphic, and it aligns itself with the techniques, motives, and traditions of the Minho region, in search a new surprising language that will conquer the world. Raw materials of open structures such as leno weave, embroideries, honeycomb effects, or even “folded” fabrics, from basic ribbing to pleats or to the subtle details of the Norfolk jacket “à la Portugaise”.  “This tile has the color of the love of my eyes that get enthralled with the rich variety of our differences and with the blue sea across which I would like to take you.”

 www.nunogama.pt

AWAYTOMARS SS 2018 - ModaLisboa

AWAYTOMARS SS 2018 -
ModaLisboa LUZ edition

AWAYTOMARS’ SS18 collection, presented at Lisbon Fashion Week in October 2017, is the result of an impressive collaboration with 718 designers from 85 different countries.
In line with the philosophy of engagement, the collection was showcased outside near the main venue of Lisbon Fashion Week.

AWAYTOMARS is the world’s first 100% user-created fashion brand. Its business model is based on sharing economy principles and aims to open up the fashion industry to all. Founded in 2015, the company outsources the initial stages of the creative process to the general public, allowing them to concentrate solely on the generation of interesting and innovative ideas.
AWAYTOMARS receives sketches and ideas online from members of the public and iterates them with the help of its online community to create eye-catching, collaborative fashion. Next, AWAYTOMARS works with technical experts to create physical prototypes, organizes a crowdfunding campaign for each product, oversees the entire production process and finally hosts the finished item on its sales portal.
www.instagram.com/awaytomars
www.awaytomars.com

Out of Fashion - Centraal Museum Utrecht

Mattijs van Bergen

Out of Fashion (Uit de Mode) exhibition took place from 8 July 2017 until 22 October 2017 at Centraal Museum Utrecht.

With this exhibition, Central Museum presented more than 100 highlights from the museum’s own fashion collection. From18th-century robes to contemporary designers such as Mattijs van Bergen and Iris van Herpen. In addition, young designers like Liselore Frowijn and collective Das Leben Am Haverkamp where given a platform.

The exhibition is designed in close collaboration with MAISON the FAUX's talented duo Joris Sux and Tessa de Boer, giving it a fresh insight from the point of view from the visionairy new generation designers.
Inspired by the different themes of the exhibition, they designed a series of objects which would preserve the clothing 'for eternity'.

Out of Fashion highlighted the wealth and diversity of the collection. Contemporary and historical fashion is presented side by side, grouped according to four themes: the maker, the wearer, the restorer and the visionary. Each of the four large rooms concentrates on one of these themes.

Meet Ups
Together with Modemuze several talks and debates where organized. I was invited to moderate Meet #3: Visionairies from fashion, that took place on 5th of October.

In this Meet Up, I have talked with the conservator Ninke Bloemberg and Tessa de Boer and Joris Suk from Maison the Faux about their experiences and visions and about the stories behind the exhibition set up.

Out of Fashion was a celebration and a feast for the eye.
In 2017, Centraal Museum celebrates the fact that 100 years ago, it was the first museum to appoint the first paid fashion curator – a remarkable fact, worldwide. Carla de Jonge began her career as an archivist of the museum collection, but she quickly managed to set up a permanent costume exhibition and went on to considerably expand the museum collection. Over the past 100 years, the focus of the collection policy has undergone significant changes: from expanding the collection of historical costumes to focusing on conceptual and contemporary national and international fashion.

http://centraalmuseum.nl

Sangue Novo - ModaLisboa LUZ

Filipe Augusto

Sangue Novo (New Blood) is a platform for young Portuguese designers who get the opportunity to show their work within a collective fashion show. Nine Portuguese designers where selected to show their collections. At the end of the show several awards where presented.
Winner of the FASHIONCLASH / Sangue Novo ModaLisboa LUZ edition is Filipe Augusto.
His prize is participation at Fashion My Religion! The 10th edition of FASHIONCLASH Festival (June 15 -17).

Filipe Augusto, born in Peso da Régua, is currently based in Porto. He graduated from Modatex Porto, in October 2016.
7 skirts is the starting point of this collection. Seven: from the seven Nazaré skirts, the traditional Portuguese costume that represents the seven virtues, the seven days of the week, the seven colors of the rainbow, among other related uses of the number. Elements as skirts and aprons, sometimes emulated in a deconstructed way into more masculine pieces, are distributed throughout seven models, each of them will tell a different story for a different skirt. Crochet is a hidden reference in the skirts and represents the fishing net’s nylon.  

Federico Cina, winner of FASHIONCLASH Festival 2017 Talent Award has been selected to take part at Sangue Novo show. He showed his Polimoda graduation collection VACUUM.

Winner of the ModaLisboa Award is David Pereira. The Feeting Room Award went to Rita Afonso who impressed The Hanged Man, a collection that is both creative and has commercial potential.
Rita Afonso was previously successful with her collection she presented at SangueNovo in March, she took part at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2017.

http://modalisboa.pt/sanguenovo

Program - FASHIONCLASH Fashion Film Festival

FFFF – FASHIONCLASH Fashion Film Festival
3 - 5 November 2017 in Maastricht

1st international film festival in the Netherlands dedicated to the ‘fashion film’ genre.

FFFF is the first international fashion film festival in the Netherlands. The 3-day program contains screenings with a selection of more than 60 short fashion films from all over the world. The opening film on 3 November is the anticipated documentary ‘We Margiela’. On Saturday there are inspiring workshops, fashion talks, various screenings and award ceremony at Lumière Cinema. In addition, an exhibition and live performance will be presented in cooperation with AKATAK collective. At de Bijenkorf Maastricht you can discover brand new Dutch fashion films and at Thiessen Wijnkoopers a selection of films produced by FASHIONCLASH.

Entrance & Tickets
FFFF is open to everyone and partly for free. Tickets for the film screenings at Lumière Cinema are on sale from € 9. The screenings at de Bijenkorf, Thiessen Wijnkoopers and two of the film screenings and the exhibition at Lumière Cinema are accessible for free.
Program & Tickets: here

Locations:
Lumière Cinema, Bassin 88
De Bijenkorf, Achter Het Vleeshuis 26
Thiessen Wijnkoopers, Grote Gracht 18


FASHIONCLASH Fashion Film Festival 2017 from FASHIONCLASH on Vimeo.

Winners Fashion Makes Sense Award 2017

Fashion Makes Sense Award 2017 
An award for young, conscious new generation designers with innovative ideas for sustainability

MUKASHI MUKASHI by Birutė Mažeikaitė won the Fashion Makes Sense Award jury prize.
Berlin based designer is awarded with a cash prize of €2.500,- to develop a new sustainable collection that will be presented during FASHIONCLASH Festival 2018.
The audience award OF €500, (result of the most online and offline votes), went to Maastricht based knitwear label STRIKKS.

The awards have been presented on October 12 by Daan Prevoo, deputy of the Province of Limburg.
Fashion Makes Sense Award is presented during Dutch Earth Week that took place from 10 -14 October 2017 for the first time.

In addition, Forza Fashion House organized a Sustainable Fashion Falk during the award ceremony. The talk, moderated by Elise Crutzen (fashion editor and writer) featured presentations by Jasmien Wynants and Carry Somers.

The jury, consisting of Carry Somers (founder Fashion Revolution), Desiree Kleinen (Ree projects) Jasmien Wynants (Flanders DC/Close the loop) and fashion designer Elsien Gringhuis, was unanimous about the work of Birutė Mažeikaitė and the potential of her sustainable brand MUKASHI MUKASHI.

Mykki Blanco meets South Africa’s young queer creatives

Aged 16, Mykki Blanco left his small South Carolina town to move to NYC and become more than it would allow him to be. Having done that and then some, the performer, artist and iconoclast has recently journeyed to Johannesburg, South Africa for a new i-D film to meet the city’s vibrant queer creative community and hear their unique stories.

Directed by Matt Lambert, Out of this World explores the young South African artists using their platforms to negotiate the complex politics of gender, sexuality and identity in their society. From fashion designer Richard Mnisi to boundary pushing artists Umilio and FAKA, Mykki explores homophobia, changing concepts of masculinity and how the internet is empowering Johannesburg’s youth. It’s a beautiful, intimate portrait of a thriving scene.

Watch the full film below:

Thom Browne - spring summer 2018

Photo: Edward James, Alessandro Garofalo / Indigital.tv

Old Times by NONsense

 

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“Creativity requires the courage to let go of certainties. Same as love.” Erich Fromm 

Old Times is a film about love, time and loss. It’s an appreciation of the beauty of the past, an exploration of regret through an insight into our past actions. It reflects on cathartic, life-changing episodes, those emotional challenges that keep on coming back to us. Old Times is a tribute to sorrow, embracing love as a necessary sickness.

The film was directed and produced by NONsense, a photo and video collective formed by Azahara Gómez, Lluis Martí, Luis Rojo, Iván Martinoz and Kevin Speight based between Mexico DF and Madrid. It’s the second project developed in collaboration with the Mexican womenswear brand Simple by Trista. The first, Movement 1, won in 2016 six awards at the Mexican Fashion Film Festival, screened at Berlin Fashion Film Festival and the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, and in 2017 was part of the official selection at Bokeh South Africa International Fashion Film Festival and Copenhagen Fashion Film Festival.

For their second collaboration, NONsense dug deeper into the values of the brand to reflect Simple by Trista’s emotional aesthetic and personality. With Old Times, the brand celebrates beauty through an appreciation of the past. The imagery of the film is based on the novel The Past by Argentine writer Alan Pauls. Similarly to the characters in the book, the actors also seek to experience the past in the present, keeping an attachment to something long gone. 

Credits 
Director: Kevin Speight
DP: Lluís Martí
Line Producer: Luis Rojo
Actors: Natalia Plasencia, Brien Hansen, Tara Parra, Marcelo Ferrari, Frances Healy
Produced: NonSense Collective
Production Design: Joanna Prado
Wardrobe: Giovani Estrada Bios
NONsense Collective - México DF & Madrid.

Nonsense is a photo and video collective formed by Lluis Martí, Kevin Speight, Zahara Gómez and Luis Rojo.

Our aim as a collective is to talk about things that matter to us; we want to share our worries and passions through our works and learn about life through them. We believe in movement as our main power and our main objective is to move and touch people.

Simple by Trista
Trista is an exclusive Mexican brand focusing on contemporary women. The design process is marked by the study of the body, society, the environment, imagination and the significance of each piece within a cultural context. The woman who wears Trista is delicate and intellectual, knows about trends, but is capable of creating her own story. Someone who loves her city and is in touch with her professional life.

Rick Owens - spring summer 2018

Credit: Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

Comme des Garçons Spring Summer 2018

Rei Kawakubo showed the beauty of the art of fashion with a collection “Multidimensional Graffiti”.
Kawakubo appropriated the work of 10 artists dating from the 16th century to today, from Renaissance painter Giuseppe Arcimboldo’s masterfully wacky Bacchus-like portrait created from fruits and vegetables to works from e-Boy, a pixel art group established in 1997, and illustrator Stefan Marx.