Triple opening at Bonnefantenmuseum

Robin de Puy

January 25th, Bonnefantenmuseum Maastricht hosted an outstanding opening of three new exhibitions. In addition, I have also visited the Kahlil Joseph exhibition.

Beating around the bush Episode #5: Old Masters never die.
Beating around the bush is an exhibition programme since 2014, in which the Bonnefantenmuseum is presenting its collection in an investigative way. In episodes, both the fixed values and the 'quiet reserve' of the collection are brought into dialogue with new and proposed acquisitions. This episode has solo presentations by Edward Lipski, Johan Tahon and Helen Verhoeven.

Robin de Puy – Randy
A wonderful portrait of the American boy Randy in the form of an installation that comprises both photo and film.
In 2015 portrait photographer Robin de Puy (1986) travelled across America on a motorcycle. During this trip an intimate portrait emerged in text and image of both herself as of the persons portrayed. In Ely, Nevada she found Randy. He rode past – fast – but in the split second she saw him she knew: De Puy had to know who this boy was. She took his portrait, left the town a few days later, and that was it – at least, that's what it seemed at the time. Back in Amsterdam Randy popped into her mind from time to time - it was impossible to know this boy and leave it at that single image. She looked him up again several times in 2016 and 2017. At the Bonnefantenmuseum Robin de Puy is presenting this portrait of Randy in the form of an installation that comprises both photo and film.

Juliaan Andeweg, Bob Eikelboom en Daniel van Straalen - Making Money For My Friends Making Money For My Friends is a group exhibition of work by Juliaan Andeweg, Bob Eikelboom and Daniel van Straalen. It is a voyage of discovery and an introduction to the work of a new, young generation of artists.

Kahlil Joseph: NEW SUNS  (01.12.2017 - 25.03.2018)
New Suns is Kahlil Josephs first solo exhibition in Europe, showing a selection of his most important films in recent years. Together with these films works will be shown from related artists and friends such as Noah Davis, Faith Davis, Karon Davis, Michelle Blade, Henry Taylor, Arthur Jafa and Saudade Toxosi.

The title New Suns is based on an epigram from a never completed book by the Afro-American science-fiction writer Octavia Butler that spoke very deeply to Joseph, capturing the cosmic tension between optimism and pessimism, and the possibility of actually breaking through this deep psychic impasse into something new, quite wonderfully. www.bonnefanten.nl/en

Don Aretino - HALAL

HALAL, the graduation collection by Don Aretino is inspired by the duality nature of same-sex desire in Islam through out various space and time. The Qur’an and the Hadith as the fundamental sources for Islamic living conduct chronicle ambiguous stance in regard to homosexuality. Beside illustrating homosexuality in Islam, this collection attends to show another possibility of accommodating homosexuality within Islam. By taking elements of Islamic characteristics into play, the pieces in the collection represent a fresh interpretation of homosexuality in Islam.
The collection should be understood as an attempt to deconstruct homosexuality In Islam by providing theological accommodation which detaches from the social climate of seventh century Arabia and instead focuses more on the ethical principle of freedom and social justices.

Credits:
Photographer: Tomas Eyzaguirre
Creative Consultant: Tomas C. Toth
Digital Print Design Collaborator: Ziga Tomori
Make-up Artist: La Vern Marquez
Models: Joshua, Peer & Santiago

www.instagram.com/donaretino

Collectie Arnhem 2018

8102 MEHNRA EITCELLOC – COLLECTIE ARNHEM 2018

Have you ever wondered what the backside of the moon looks like? Or which constellations the birthmarks are forming on your back? How we see the fun fair when the lights are off? Are you aware of what’s hiding behind your mask? Are you emerging from behind your façade?

Without a back side, there’s no front side. There’s beauty in excess, but there’s also beauty in the honesty behind all the glitter. As fashion designers, we welcome the charm of the façade. At the same time, we strive to let go and show what’s been generally hidden from us. This duality forms the core of the collection.

“Blaze with your front, command with your true side: your backside.”

We are 8102 MEHNRA EITCELLOC, a cult committed to reveal the truth: the backside. We have a shared fascination for all that’s occurring behind the façade. We fold the laundry inside out, play with crayons and collect everything that catches our eye.

8102 MEHNRA EITCELLOC visualizes a collective, a micro society which is built on creativity, love and protection. The collection is based on archetypes; figures that play an essential role within the 8102 MEHNRA EITCELLOC cult. The variety of these contemporary archetypes led to an exciting mix of various design techniques, these are subsequently applied to a uniform which strengthens the group dynamic. Think of a grandpa: an old man who rules the world and charms from his lazy chair in a pampering boilersuit. The innocent child, who is not aware of rules and can’t take his uniform seriously. Or the materialist, who is unable to see the difference between his shopping bags and clothes because of his greediness. Each archetype reveals itself within its uniform. The collection forms a fragmentary, new world and shows the power of diversity within a group.

The colours white and cream dominate the overall collection image; we find the first impression open and undefiled. White is all colours of light combined and represents a true reflection of shadow and light; everything that is designed is shown. As a counterbalance, there’s an oversaturation in the use of colour; these looks contrast starkly with the white colour palette. This exuberance is derived from the hysteria of daily façades. The use of fabric and its assimilation had everything to do with the uniform and duality between the front- and backside. The collection mainly consists of solid workman fabrics with specially developed woven jacquards as a contrast and our own watermark as highlight.

“Let go and unveil your true side.”

campaign photo by Lonneke van der Palen

Collectie Arnhem
19 third year fashion students from ArtEZ University of the Arts present the twentieth year of ‘Collectie Arnhem’. Next to designing and presenting the collection, they gain experience within all facets of the fashion industry. Collectie Arnhem 2018 will be shown on 30 January in the Art Chapel in Amsterdam.

Designers
Birgit Steinbusch | Britt Liberg | Christa Kronenburg | Django Tetteroo | Dylan Westerweel | Inez de Jong | Joline Kwakkenbos | Jule Voelklein | Kevin Pleiter | Lisa Bisschop | Liu Hong Quan | Luka Mooibroek | Manon Romeijn | Michelle Vossen | Myra van Vlimmeren | Nadine Mol | Nina Liburd | Renée Kraaijvanger | Sanne van Vloten

www.collectiearnhem.nl
www.instagram.com/collectiearnhem

show photography: Jan Willem Kaldenbach

SANDRINE PHILIPPE - AW18/19

'Human Process' AW 2018/19 collection

Everything is a question the test of time, being part of a group, ones freedom, opposition, identity as an evolutionary gallery, still window, witness of a certain vision of ones life, the relationship between sense and madness, a symbol of a collective memory.

Inspired by Shakespeare’s universe, the collection swings from one texture to another, it winds in a constant chromatic range, a silent journey in a black land punctuated by touches of white there body and movement hold a main place.
 'Human Process' is diving into the abyss of pure emotion and testifies of the beauty and timelessness of human race.

www.sandrinephilippe.com
www.autrementpr.com

THE NRW DESIGN ISSUE / TNRWDI

Katharina Beilstein at Petra Rinck Galerie

Last weekend FASHIONCLASH attended the TNRWDI DESIGN ISSUE in Düsseldorf. A brand-new concept, created by NRW Forum aiming to connect fashion design and art scene in North Rhine-Westphalia. The event took place parallel to the PLATFORM FASHION and SUPREME and GLLERY trade shows, showcasing Düsseldorf as a potential fashion city.
The visit started at the Supreme Group Trade Fair. Followed by a walk through the cities up-and-coming neighborhood where several art galleries are located. For the occasion of the TNRWDI event several galleries provided platform for contemporary emerging designers. This gallery tour was the highlight of the day, discovering talented designers and brands such as Maryvonne Wellen Jewelry, Katharina Beilstein, Second.Skin.Studio and Opaak.
Further in the evening the program continued at the impressive area. Areal Böhler, the location for this order platform in Düsseldorf, is the ideal venue to present all segments – Agencies & Premium Brands, Avantgarde, Design & Contemporary, Accessories as well as evening wear. The evening concluded with the TNRWDI CATWALK show featuring local designers Strehlow, MIAKI KOMURO, Marianna Déri, JEN MM Dsgn by Jennifer Moica, Machart Manufakture, Peter O. Mahler.

For more information: www.tnrwdi.de

Sadak FW 2018

www.sadak.de

Federico Cina - Fall/Winter 2018

Federico Cina Fall/Winter 2018 lookbook
Model: Simone Pedini
Photography: Gabriele Rosati & Luca Notarfrancesco
Stying: Simone Botte

www.federicocina.net

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus AW 2018

www.comme-des-garcons.com

Julien David Fall/Winter 2018

                                                               www.juliendavid.com

SCHEPERS BOSMAN AW 2018

SCHEPERS BOSMAN SHOWCASING FROM PARIS

On Sunday, January 21st, Schepers Bosman showcased their new collection from Paris.
Schepers Bosman is an Amsterdam based designer duo made up of Sanne Schepers (1989) and Anne Bosman (1988) which was formed last year in January.

The inspiration behind the new Autumn / Winter 2018 collection is a merge between pop and avant-garde. With a Pop Art mind set, the duo started on the new collection taking inspiration from their surroundings. Images from the touristic side of Amsterdam, with classical forms taken from the Amsterdam School and flower paintings from the Golden Age.
The materials used for the collection are made up of cotton corduroys and light weight denims from North England, checkered techno nylon and double stretch fleece. All prints are designed in their studio and are then applied by hand and machine. Schepers Bosman design with graphical colour, a variety of form with a minimalistic impact.

De collection was made possible thanks to the Amsterdam Fund for the Arts (AFK) and the 3PackageDeal.

Photography: Robby Hekkers
www.schepersbosman.com Instagram

‘Heaven or Hell?’

Jólan van der Wiel for Iris van Herpen

‘Heaven or Hell?’
28 January 2018 - 2 September 2018

Heaven or Hell? is an exhibition on extraordinary shoe design at at Cube Design Museum in Kerkrade (The Netherlands)!
The exhibition is a co-production with Italy’s IMF Foundation and can be visited in the Cube design museum from 28 January to 2 September 2018.

 95% of Dutch women feel more confident when wearing a pair of beautiful shoes. However, an average of 23 pairs of shoes in the closet suggest that shoes also fulfil other desires.
Showcasing 100 pairs of remarkable footwear, the new ‘Heaven or Hell?’ exhibition at the Cube design museum highlights the needs shoes can fulfil and how shoe designers play in on this. Current, iconic specimens, shoes from the recent past, and new innovations for future shoes, ‘Heaven or Hell?’ has them all. Stilettos, ballerinas, wedges, sneakers, flip flops: are they heavenly or hell?

Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination

Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination

While FASHIONCLASH Festival is preparing its 10th edition curated around the theme of Fashion My Religion! another annual highlight is in the making in New York.

The Costume Institute's spring 2018 exhibition—at The Met Fifth Avenue and The Met Cloisters—will feature a dialogue between fashion and religious artworks from The Met collection to examine the relationship between creativity and the religious imagination.
 

Left: El Greco, Cardinal Fernando Niño de Guevara (1541–1609), c. 1600, oil on canvas; right: Evening Coat, Cristóbal Balenciaga for Balenciaga, Autumn/Winter 1954–55

The display of these extraordinary ecclesiastical pieces will highlight the enduring influence of religion and liturgical vestments on fashion, from Cristóbal Balenciaga to Donatella Versace, who is one of the sponsors of the show. Among the 150 or so ensembles that will be on display are pieces by Coco Chanel, who was educated by nuns, and John Galliano, whose transgressive Fall 2000 Couture collection for Christian Dior opened with a mitred, incense-swinging pope-like figure who proceeded down the runway to a voice intoning: “Understand the concept of love.”

Serving as the cornerstone of the exhibition, papal robes and accessories from the Sistine Chapel sacristy, many of which have never been seen outside The Vatican, will be on view in the Anna Wintour Costume Center. Fashions from the early 20th century to the present will be shown in The Met's Medieval and Byzantine galleries and at The Met Cloisters alongside religious artworks, to provide an interpretative context for fashion's engagement with Catholicism.

Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination” is on view May 10–October 8, 2018. A catalog with photographs by Katerina Jebb will accompany the exhibition.

 #MetHeavenlyBodies

More information: https://www.metmuseum.org

POWERMASK - Wereldmuseum Rotterdam

Portret Walter Van Beirendonck - photo Aad Hoogendoorn

POWERMASK at Wereldmuseum Rotterdam
Until 18 March 2018

POWERMASK is an exhibition curated by Walter Van Beirendonck. The exhibition is
In the exhibition Power Mask guest curator Walter van Beirendonck shares his fascination for the worlds of masks. Van Beirendonck Explores different functions of masks: the supernatural, rituals, African masks as an inspiration for modern art and masks in contemporary high fashion.

The exhibition features works from artists, designers and photographers like Viktor & Rolf, Jean Paul Gaultier, Keith Haring and Thom Browne.

photo Aad Hoogendoorn

www.wereldmuseum.nl