BRANKOPOPOVICBLOG: Workwear exhibition the Nieuwe Instituut

Workwear, ‘A Different Kind of Fashion Exhibition’ at Het Nieuwe Instituut

From 26 March 2023, Rotterdam based Het Nieuwe Instituut pays tribute to functional fashion with the Workwear exhibition. Originally designed as protection and support for labourers while they performed heavy tasks, workwear became a potent working-class symbol, and today its presence on the street and catwalk cannot be ignored.

Some clothes need no description: a number like M-65, G1 or 501 is enough to summon images of, respectively, a field jacket, flight jacket or denim classic. Migrating from the army base, airfield or factory, such garments became widely worn fashion items. Designers like Massimo Osti and Helmut Lang transformed them into staples of boutiques worldwide; fashion pioneers like Elsa Schiaparelli and Yohji Yamamoto turned them into luxury couture.

With the Workwear exhibition, the Nieuwe Instituut delves into the world of functional fashion for the first time. London-based curator Eldina Begic became fascinated by work clothing and fashion’s social role during her PhD research. While most fashion reinforces notions of individuality or social status, work clothing does precisely the opposite: it radiates equality and solidarity. According to Begic, workwear therefore represents a utopian ideal. The Workwear exhibition, then, is a different kind of fashion exhibition. It celebrates the history, functionality and impact of clothing originally designed for working people but that is now worn by everyone and inspires countless fashion designers worldwide.

Says curator Eldina Begic: “I think this is an important exhibition, because the utopian qualities of workwear offer a blueprint for a different kind of fashion – clothing that stands for durability and solidarity. Above all, the exhibition celebrates the inspiring and empowering quality of these clothes, which is often overlooked. And the show is full of surprises in the way it connects workwear to radical ideas in art, design and politics.”

Says Aric Chen, General and Artistic Director of Nieuwe Instituut: “We’re pleased to present this exhibition that shows how functional design has helped shape the social and cultural dimensions of fashion and, in following, our societies and cultures themselves. Workwear brings up questions around class, labour, solidarity and equality—while also revealing the beauty, ingenuity and creativity to be found in the utilitarian.”

The exhibition

Begic has selected dozens of vintage classics, current looks and futuristic experiments for Workwear. Among the items on display are tabi boots (popularised by fashion house Maison Martin Margiela), Lygia Clark’s participatory ’therapy’ jumpsuits and masks, the ‘Flexicap’ by Maria Blaisse, items from Helmut Lang’s Stellar Collection, overalls by Yohji Yamamoto, the 11-person Red Coat rain suit by Nicola L, a jumpsuit by London vintage collectors Vintage Showroom, and the ‘space suit’ with zip-off legs worn by members of the Dutch Provo movement. There are also jumpsuits by the Italian futurist Thayaht and by designer Aleksander Rodchenko, theatre costumes by avant-garde designers Stepanova and Popova, X-rays of Neil Armstrong’s moon landing suit and a Bonne Suit by Amsterdam designer Bonne Reijn.

The pieces are displayed on wooden mannequins within an exhibition design by Rotterdam-based studio Cookies, Collin Keys and Edward Zammit. The wooden panels with the cut-outs from the mannequin parts are being reused as panels for the accompanying texts. The exhibition’s graphic design is by Isabelle Vaverka.

In addition, especially for the exhibition, two Rotterdammers have created new works exploring the future of workwear. Designer Sam Cruden of custom jeans brand C.Cruden presents an installation focusing on the life cycle of indigo jeans. Spoken word artist Elten Kiene has written a workwear manifesto in the context of the exhibition. Families with children can explore Workwear by taking part in a free Family Expedition.

Bonne Suits x Nieuwe Instituut
Bonne Reijn of fashion label Bonne Suits made a limited edition Bonne Suits x Nieuwe Instituut jacket in an exclusive green color especially for Workwear. The jacket, of which there are only 100 copies, will be available for the first time during the opening.

Opening

For the festive opening on Saturday evening, the Nieuwe Instituut transformed its arcade behind the building into an enormous catwalk.
The Wearwork fashion show has been curated for the occasion by designer Ninamounah of the eponymous fashion label. About three hundred visitors witnessed the work of up-and-coming labels Hardeman, Kaam Kari LA, Schepers Bosman, Das Leben am Haverkamp, HEH, Pablo Salvador Willemars and Camiel Fortgens, who each designed a number of items that represented their personal interpretation of workwear.

In addition, especially for the exhibition, two Rotterdammers have created new works exploring the future of workwear. Designer Sam Cruden of custom jeans brand C.Cruden presents an installation focusing on the life cycle of a pair of jeans. Spoken word artist Elten Kiene has written a workwear manifesto in the context of the exhibition.

The Workwear the exhibition can be visited until 10 September 2023 in Gallery 2 of the Nieuwe Instituut in Rotterdam. For more information, please visit https://workwear.hetnieuweinstituut.nl/en