Monday, 7 May 2018

Program - Fashion My Religion - FASHIONCLASH Festival 2018

What to expect! FASHIONCLASH Festival - Fashion My Religion! jubilee edition

FASHIONCLASH presents Fashion My Religion! The 10-year anniversary edition of the international and interdisciplinary FASHIONCLASH Festival. During the 15th, 16th and 17th of June 2018 more than 150 promising designers and stage performers from countries such as the Netherlands, Germany, Italy, Portugal, Serbia, Finland, Uruguay and many more will take part in the festival. The festival program is composed within a 3-day program The Route: an inspiring pilgrimage along expositions, lectures, theatre- and dance performances and talks. The Fashion Show program takes place on Saturday evening, a spectacular evening where talents of the future will take the stage at the SAM-Decorfrabriek.

In short, a unique opportunity to get inspired by and discover the world of fashion, the newest fashion talents and to enjoy Maastricht as a fashion city.

For more information about the program and designers: www.fashionclash.nl
 
Tickets: FASHIONCLASH Festival is accessible for everyone and anyone and is mostly free of entrance, with the exception of the fashion shows on Saturday. Tickets for the fashion show are for sale from €12,50 (pre-sale online) and €15, -/ students €7,50 at the door. Tickets are available from May 1st 2018 via www.fashionclash.nl - and during the festival at the SAM-Decorfabriek.


Dorota Sak
Theme: Fashion My Religion!
The overarching theme Fashion My Religion! boldly dives into one of the most current themes of the moment; religion. Specifically, the relation between religion and gender, hair style and clothing. FASHIONCLASH dares participants and visitors to research, highlight or break existing religious traditions and taboos by way of using fashion. A call to activism that hopefully inspires a new generation of fashion- makers and lovers to fulfil their role as meaningful as they can.

‘’The meeting between fashion and religion isn’t a new one. Religious idioms and luxury have been used for decades by many within fashion. Sometimes just for ethical motives, other times with a dose of criticism. With ‘Fashion My Religion’ we are placing the audience and the designer in an interesting area of tension; fashion versus religion or cutting-edge versus tradition. We take a closer look at cultural expressions of personal, modern meaning and more traditional ones. We place historical absolutes opposite from modern-day fluid truths by really going in on social matters such as, feminism and human rights. Through (fashion)design we dissect the ever-changing awareness around the relationship we have with our environment and come up with new stories and approaches to ‘fashion and religion’.’’ -FC Team

10th edition Serbia Fashion Week

Peer Cox
The 10th anniversary of Serbia Fashion Week was held from April 24 - 29. The grand opening of took place in Dunavski Park, the alternative fashion of young designers curated by Srđan Šveljo was held at Kineska Četvrt former industrial complex, in SKC Fabrika. The fashion shows, as always, where staged at the Congress Center Master of Novi Sad Fair. The the closing ceremony will be held at the Serbian National Theatre. On this evening more than 20 organisations and notable people where honored, showing them support they gave to Serbia Fashion Week over the last five years.
I was there receive one of the jubilee awards on behalf of FASHIONCLASH.
Almost since the beginning FASHIONCLASH and Serbia Fashion Week exchanged talents. Several FASHIONCLASH designers where given the stage, while sveral Serbian designers where presented at FASHIONLCLASH Festival such as NEO Design and Moda Mišić.

On the runway this edition several Serbian and international designers where given the stage. Among them the familiar names such as Bosko Jakovljevic, Bata Spasojević, Marija Šabić,  Zvonko Marković and Ana Vasiljevic. Among the international designers where Bosnian designer Milan Senić, Dutch designer Addy van den Krommenacker and FASHIONCLASH designer Peer Cox.

with designer Peer Cox

Dutch fashion designer Peer Cox showed his collectin at the 10th edition of Serbia Fashion Week.
With his upcycled collection Peer shows that innovation and sustainability can go hand in hand.
Peer Cox took part at Fashion Makes Sense edition of FASHIONCLASH Festival in 2017.

The 10th edition was closed at the Serbian National Theatre in Novi Sad with a tribute show.
The closing ceremony of Serbia Fashion Week was directed by member of the French Haute Couture institute and Vice-President of Serbia Fashion Week, Eymeric François. François worked with Mugler from 1997 to 1999. The choreography was inspired by the golden age of haute couture in Paris – the 80s and 90s, when supermodels were superstars. The models’ hair will be styled by Frederic Pavard of Alexandre de Paris, a legendary hair stylist who has worked with renowned fashion houses such as Chanel, Yves Saint-Laurent, Givenchy, Christian Dior, Pierre Balmain, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Thierry Mugler for over 40 years.

http://serbiafashionweek.com

Fashion Displacement - Berlin edition

Fashion Displacement 
Professionals to rework the industry in partnership with VOGUE Germany

On April 26th 2018 the Florentine Fashion School Polimoda invited a selection of influential teachers and decision makers of the Fashion industry to the Aufbauhaus Atelier in Kreuzberg for this year’s edition of Fashion Displacement, organized in partnership with VOGUE Germany. Berlin was the third city after New York (2016) and Florence (2017) in which the panel discussion was held. Topic of this year’s event was the question of ways to build bridges between professional training and the fashion industry.
The topic was discussed by:
- Christiane Arp (President of the Fashion Council Germany and Editor-in-Chief of VOGUE Germany)
- Laudomida Pucci (Deputy Chairperson and Image Manager at Emilio Pucci)
- Christopher Lacy (Director of Customer Experience and Strategy at Barneys New York)
- Johann König (Art Dealer and Gallery Owner,König Galerie)
- Branko Popovic (Co-founder & Co-Director of FASHIONCLASH foundation)
- Sam Cotton (Fashion Designer and Co-founder of Agi&Sam)
- Danilo Venturi (Director of Polimoda)

The panel discussion was chaired by Linda Loppa, one of the most significant women in Fashion. Loppa had been the director of the Polimoda for nine years, before she moved to Paris in 2015 to commence with her current role of establishing connections and insight from the continuously growing industry for the institute.
Loppa’s introduction of the guests was not quite done yet when the participants of the panel already started their debate. They all agreed immediately: the gap between the education in the industry and the actual working situation is currently too wide. Therefor not many designers are prepared to start a business after their studies.

Thursday, 3 May 2018

Jan Taminiau: Reflections - Centraal Museum


Jan Taminiau Reflections
From 21 April 2018, Centraal Museum in Utrecht presents a major exhibition on the work of Jan Taminiau.
Displaying dozens of his top works, the exhibition demonstrates the wealth and depth of Taminiau’s work. The exhibition takes visitors on a journey of discovery into the world of research, memories, inspiration, experimentation and craftsmanship of one of the country’s most prominent fashion designers.
Jan Taminiau (1975, Goirle) is known for his use of traditional handicraft and production techniques, the application of unique and original materials, and for his outspoken sense of aesthetics. In 2014 he was awarded the most important fashion prize in the Netherlands, the Grand Seigneur. After establishing his label JANTAMINIAU in 2004, his way of combining the classic and the feminine with the conceptual and expe
rimental quickly made him very popular with clients all over the world. From inspiration to creation
With this monumental exhibition that focuses not only on the fashion pieces but also on Taminiau’s design and conceptual processes, Centraal Museum aims to introduce visitors to – or to refresh their perspective on - the work of this master of couture. By relating his sources of inspiration in fashion, photography, design and art to his work methods and the results, the exhibition reveals the process leading up to a couture piece. What are these sources of inspiration, and how are they reflected in his creations?

As the oldest municipal museum in the Netherlands, Centraal Museum Utrecht owns a major museum fashion collection that includes work by Jan Taminiau. The museum has a strong reputation for its regular sensational fashion exhibitions. In addition to new work by Jan Taminiau and previously acquired pieces, this exhibition also displays some spectacular loan pieces from other museums, some top items from the JANTAMINIAU studio, and some unique pieces from private collections.
With the prominent stylist Maarten Spruyt engaged for the design of the exhibition, it promises to be an exciting museum experience in which visitors are immersed in the world of Jan Taminiau. Jan Taminiau: Reflections will run from 21 April to 26 August 2018 at Centraal Museum in Utrecht.

centraalmuseum.nl

Wednesday, 2 May 2018

Bucharest Fashion Film Festival 2018

2018 Edition of Bucharest Fashion Film Festival took place in the weekend of 13-15 April.
The film screenings where set at Cinema Elvira Popescu and the talks where scheduled in Point.
I was invited to take part in the jury panel, together with Andy Lee, a Senior Lecturer in Film Practice and the Course Director for MA Fashion Media Production at the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London. The jury panel members from Romania where Alina Gavrilă-Borțu, Maurice Munteanu and Mihai Bumbu.

The charming festival was well organized and carefully curated by founders and directors Ioana Diaconu and Madalina Cozmeanu. During the festival several talks where organized, focusing on topics such as the Future of Fashion Film and 'Women's representation in media and positive body image'. In addition to short films, several fashion documentary where screened such as We Margiela, 1070:Sex, Fashion & Disco and Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist.
On Sunday evening, the festival closing ceremony concluded with announcement of two awards. “The Eye Ball” - Georgetown Opticians, by Dean Alexander won Best Film and Prosper Center // SS18 by Raya al Soulimanwon Best Romanian fashion film.


Sunday, 22 April 2018

The Death of Melanie Bonajo

The Death of Melanie Bonajo 

How to unmodernize yourself and become an elf in 12 steps 

20.04.2018 – 28.10.2018 

The Death of Melanie Bonajo is the first museum retrospective of video installations by the Dutch artist Melanie Bonajo (Heerlen, 1978).

The exhibition which is developed by guest curator Geir Haraldseth, the artist and her close collaborator Théo Demans, gives the visitor an opportunity to reflect not just on eir work, but also on what the work means in our modern, capitalist society. The apocalyptic title of the show may sound dramatic, but in the light of this opportunity of looking back, you need to die in order to be reborn. And in being reborn, you can rethink and recast yourself. Who do you want to be?
A bird? A rock? A feeling? A sound? An elf? Your elf? Yourself?

The Death of Melanie Bonajo is immersive in many ways, as the installations and the path through the exhibition is rich in sensual experiences.

www.bonnefanten.nl

Showroom Limburg 2018 - Cube Design Museum

Bregje Cox & Mark King

Showroom Limburg offers an overview of the present creative sector in the province of Limburg. The exhibition shows Limburg design work in the widest possible sense of designs developed by designers originating from Limburg, living in Limburg or working here. Additionally there are products on show which were commissioned by well-known or lesser-known Limburg companies.  

Participants: Patrick Belli, Olivia Bertus, Bregje Cox & Mark King, Juulke Brosky, Jacqueline Hoffman, Reonald Westerdijk, René Holten en Rob van Acker, Adam Bialek, Rob Driessen, Thomas Eurlings, Sanne Gelissen, Loet Gescher, Erik Hoedemakers, Marco Iannicelli, Martijn Koomen, Jos Kranen & Johannes Gille, Mireille Meijs, Annebeth Nies, Françoise Oostwegel, Bastjan Otten & Camille de Vrede, Marlijn Quirijnen, Elwy Schutten, Fabian Seibert, Fabian von Spreckelsen, Peter Traag, Ellen Truijen, Moniek Vierling, Dieter Volkers & Klaas Kuiken, Elleke de Vries, Jeroen Wand, Frans Willigers, Jessica den Hartog, Djillie Roes, Marjan Eggels

www.cubedesignmuseum.nl

Wednesday, 28 March 2018

Loewe x Anthea Hamilton


Loewe x Anthea Hamilton On Tate Britain Commission 2018: The Squash

Tate Britain unveils The Squash, an immersive installation combining performance and sculpture by 2016 Turner Prize nominee Anthea Hamilton. The artist has designed seven costumes in collaboration with LOEWE to be worn by the performers. The Squash has been created for the annual Tate Britain Commission, which invites contemporary British artists to create new artwork in response to the grand space of the Duveen Galleries.

Anthea Hamilton has transformed the heart of Tate Britain into an elaborate stage for the continuous 6-month performance of a single character, dressed in a colourful squash-like costume. Over 7,000 white floor tiles have been laid to span the length of the Duveens and encase a series of large structures that serve as podiums for a number works of art from Tate’s collection, chosen by Hamilton for their organic forms and colours. The tiles create an immersive new environment within the neoclassical galleries.

The artist is influenced by the early 20th century French writer and dramatist Antonin Artaud and his call for the ‘physical knowledge of images’, it is this bodily response to an idea or an image that she wishes to examine in The Squash. Each element of the work has evolved from Hamilton’s interest in a found photograph, for which the original source has since been lost. The viewer must imagine its history and intention and it is here the artist brings together tiles, structures, sculptures and costumes, inviting the performer to explore their own interpretation of the image. Hamilton has designed seven costumes in collaboration with Creative Director Jonathan Anderson from the fashion house LOEWE that incorporate the colours and shapes of varieties of squash or pumpkin. The squash inspired the organic textures of the costumes and heads, that range from hand painted leather to printed silk crepon, while 1970s clothing references shaped some of the silhouettes. Performers will select a costume each day, informing and reflecting their individual presentation ofthe character as they inhabit the space.

Alex Farquharson, Director, Tate Britain, said: ‘Anthea Hamilton has made a unique contribution to British and International Art with her visually playful works that both provoke and delight. This compelling commission demonstrates her ability to seamlessly weave together captivating images and narratives, creating rich new environments in which to encounter works of art.’

Tate Britain Commission 2018: Anthea Hamilton is curated by Linsey Young, Curator of Contemporary British Art, Tate, and Sofia Karamani, Assistant Curator of Contemporary British Art

http://antheahamilton.com
http://www.tate.org.uk

Tuesday, 20 March 2018

DZHUS - Spring/Summer 2018


SS18 “ARCHAEA” COLLECTION

DZHUS’ Spring/Summer 2018 line unveils the designer’s secret passion: palaeontology.
Having explored the phenomenon of generation and development of life on Earth for years, simultaneously with her patternmaking experiments, Irina Dzhus has eventually come up with unique zoomorphic silhouettes and geologic textures of the “Archaea” collection.

The conceptual cut of the multifunctional transformer garments pays honour to fossils of ammonites and trilobites, evolution of charnia and arthropleura, long-gone Carbon and Ordovician.
Along with the biological leitmotif, the collection carries an association with the scientific avant-garde of late 19th – early 20th centuries, appealing to the Victorian aesthetics as well as laboratory uniforms.

DZHUS’ Spring/Summer line features a vast variety of edgy yet exquisite textiles: crushed silk, mélange linen, sheer crepe, finest woollen gauze, cotton with a distressed effect. Traditionally, DZHUS have used alternative fabric finishes, accentuating the technological background of their design.

LOOKBOOK CREDITS
Photo: Lesha Lich
Styling & makeup: Irina Dzhus @ DZHUS Style Studio
Hair: Dmitriy Kuz’michev @ Erteqoob
Models: Anastasia Kolenkova, Irina Fedotenko
Vegetarian-friendly shoes: Intertop

http://www.irinadzhus.com

DZHUS is a conceptual womenswear brand launched in 2010 by Ukrainian designer and stylist Irina Dzhus. Avant-garde yet utilitarian, DZHUS is known for innovative cut, multifunctional transformer garments and austere industrial aesthetics. Inspired by the complex structure of the ambient, Irina Dzhus generates unique experimental constructions.
Short-listed for the International Woolmark Prize in 2015, DZHUS present their collections during Ukrainian Fashion Week, Paris Fashion Week and International Fashion Showcase in London. DZHUS vegetarian-friendly clothing is stocked at concept stores in the USA, Austria, Japan, China, Australia, UAE, Saudi Arabia and Ukraine and sold online worldwide.

http://www.irinadzhus.com

Verena Schepperheyn AW 2018

Verena Schepperheyn introduces first genderless collection

The design was inspired by Verena’s grandparents. Verena has reviewed all the photo archives and the interior of her grandparents’ house where she has spent most of her childhood. All the clothing, photos and furniture she saw have been customized for this collection. Inspired and enhanced, Autumn/Winter 18 represents that mood within the collection by having a playful but classical approach to the design.
The print designs include collages made of the kitchen floor and old family pictures which were turned into new mottos and emblazoned on shirts and t-shirts with a vintage feel. Minimal, fluid pieces are paired with padded 3-D pockets. The collection presents a number of oversized styles, merging tailoring with work- and streetwear.
Checks in the materials, pattern cutting and placements are combined with fabrics such as cord, padded textiles, premium jerseys, wool, cotton, denim, cashmere and knitwear.

Verena Schepperheyn turns to colour blocking imbuing this in both techniques such as piping details and contrasting material combinations - all undeniable signatures of the brand. The sharp colour palette of black, burgundy, navy, brown, caramel, mustard and beige is accompanied by an interplay of technical polished fabrics and natural matt textiles.

ABOUT
Upon graduating from ArtEZ in Arnhem, Netherlands with an MA in Menswear, Verena Schepperheyn launched her eponymous label in Berlin. Techniques such as embroidery, prints and textile manipulation in combination with strong shapes are at the core of the brand’s spirit.
In her designs, Verena Schepperheyn likes to explore the boundaries between form and function. She reconstructs classical forms by providing them with new contexts and modern proportions. It‘s a constant research for fabrics and textures to develop a juxtaposition of rough and refined. In recent years, Schepperheyn has received the Premium Young Designers Award 2016 for the best Menswear Label and has been nominated for the German Design Award 2016 and the WGSN Future Award 2016 in the emerging brand category. Past collections have been showcased at Copenhagen Fashion Week, London Fashion Week Men‘s and Amsterdam Fashion Week.

http://verenaschepperheyn.com

Not(e) for a Dreamer - Fashion Film by Enrico Poli

"If spring belongs to the senses, the end of summer belongs to reason. I fall somewhere in between"

Not(e) for a Dreamer is the latest film by award-winning director Enrico Poli, produced by the London-based production company White Coat. The film uses the changing of seasons as a reflection of the transition from childhood into adulthood. Lead character Anaïs voices her feelings with a mixture of anticipation and anxiety. She's fully aware that things are changing, though not entirely sure to what extent. Each season represents a specific time in one's life: spring full of the carelessness of youth; summer full of opportunities but tinged with sadness as autumn approaches; autumn and winter representing the shift into adulthood where we struggle as we long for the past and accept change as part of being human. 


 
Not(e) for a Dreamer excels with its sublime visual language and sound design which connects with the viewer on an emotional level. The film was shot in Greve in Chianti in Italy making use of natural and available light only as a way to achieve a realistic, yet poetic look. The cinematography complements and enriches the nostalgic feel of the film, in which shots and framing play a key role in the unfolding of the story. Not(e) for a Dreamer is a tribute to the classics of the past through a modern eye.

Sunday, 18 March 2018

Dino Alves - ModaLisboa N.50

THE OTHER TRUTH - FW 2018/19 Collection

Dino Alves had the honor to close the 50th edition of ModaLisboa. The conceptual designer likes to play with the codes of the runway presentation and strives to tell a story with his collections. This time the actuall end of the schedule started literally with dismantling during Dino Alves show, aiming to show the beauty in imprefection. Before the models came out, the cleaning team appeared on the catwalk with machines and garbage cans, the floor got ripped, the pipe and drape went down and the backdrop was beinng taken off. The clothes that where presented, where far from unperfect, in fact Dino proposed a very playful and fresh collection.

'One of the main goals of the human being today is to be observed at every moment and to be seen as a perfect being, beautifil, successful, with a dream life and almost always sexy. 

Since imprefection is a form of freedom, why would the individual just want to be perfect, submitting himself to a kind of dictatorship of perfection, thus influencing others so many times through their authenticity, individuality and beauty. Have they lost themselves too?!
The world has changed, we all know. However, there is one question that we should preserve and maintain: the truth, which at this time seems to be just one other. The other truth!'


www.dinoalves.eu

Saturday, 17 March 2018

Van Eyck Open Studios 2018

Vera Gulikers
The Van Eyck Academy Open Days took place from 8th till 10th of March. All the participating artists, designers, architects, curators and writers displayed their artistic research and collaborative projects resulting from their residency at the Van Eyck.
The Open Studios 2018 showed a variety and high quality of projects resulting in a multidisciplinary exhibition with videos, performances, paintings and installation. Wandering through the studios and Van Eyck labs provided an inspiring glimpse of many promising creatives of the future.
The central Open Studios exhibition is curated by participants Bernke Klein Zandvoort and Rodrigo Red Sandoval.

http://www.janvaneyck.nl

Here are some of my highlights.

Ricardo Andrez - ModaLisboa N.50


Ricardo Andrez FW 2018/19

The TFS's ( TrustFundKids)
"The legacy of streetwear is modern; it was born in the skate, surf and hiphip in the 80s and 90s.
It was an insignia of honor and underground, symbolizing a movement outside the fashion industry.
Capturring and analyzing the current stereotype, the symbol of progress makes the streetwear the mainstream, saturated with teenagers with ridiculous amounts of money to spend.  Many of them understand little what supports this inheritance of brands and only what their logos represent socially."

www.ricardoandrez.com



Kolovrat - ModaLisboa N.50


KOLOVRAT Fall/Winter 18/19 'SHAPE SHIFT'

SHAPE SHIFT
"I will tell you a story.
Unexpected and unfitting.
As you feel nostalgic.
I will reset your reality.
I will shape your mood.
I’ll tell you a story as if it were yours" 


www.lidijakolovrat.com



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