Sunday, 28 March 2021

Je Suis Responsable - fashion film

Je Suis Responsable | Fashion Film for À forma

“I forget that I’m responsible. But I am.”

Je Suis Responsable offers to the viewer a poetic, poignant experience while posing questions over humanity and existence. It’s the latest fashion film by award winning director Enrico Poli for the emerging brand, À forma. It was produced by Manufactory Productions and shot in several locations around Bologna, a town in northern Italy.

Je Suis Responsable (French for “I am responsible”) stands first and foremost for
the designers’ statement to produce responsibly. However, the film takes its title from a monologue it quotes and homages. In Godard’s Vivre sa Vie, Anna Karina’s character tells a friend how she feels that “we are responsible for everything we do”. What does it actually mean to say that we are responsible?

The locations where the film is set constantly remind us of the power of nature; that given enough time, nature finds its way through what humans have neglected. It’s key to the central message of the film: artifice is immaterial, things fade, they lose their form and function. Humans are impermanent, only nature continues. It’s the biggest strength we know. Nature is time’s most wonderful and consistent expression.

“What moved us into action was the urgency to translate the global derealisation brought about by the pandemic into a form of art. Coronavirus has shown us how fragile we are and how easily things can fall apart: I can’t help but feel this is a wake up call. As we continue to live through this crisis with an awareness of our own fragility and as scientists warn us of the irrevocable damage Global Warming will have on society, preserving life on this planet has become the defining challenge of our time. It may already be too late to reverse this course, but I firmly believe the least we can do is try.” - Enrico Poli

 

The film is Enrico Poli’s latest collaboration with designer Antonio, after working successfully on two films for his previous brand MONO-Y and Not(e) for a Dreamer.

“Antonio and I have always thought very highly of each other, and have developed an attitude toward working together based on trust and creative freedom. Back in November 2020 Antonio and Daniele had just started producing the first collection of their new brand, À forma
. I was prepping a music video at the time and I asked them to invest some money so that I could hold on to the camera and the lenses for one additional day. They accepted and we went on to shoot Je Suis Responsable. I remember Antonio and Daniele laughing at me when I told them that I was writing a script; I hadn’t seen a single piece of clothing, and there hadn’t been much discussion over what the film was supposed to communicate, yet. All I knew was that À forma had made sustainability its core value.”  Enrico Poli

 

À forma bases its designs on contrasts. Combining opposites represents the lifestyle of the designers. They believe in the adaptability of form. They structure their work up to the smallest detail, with the aim of seeing the unexpected emerge. They put absolute attention in the selection of the fabrics of their garments, then play with accessories to create breaking points. The film mirrors this approach with its narrative, cinematography, and soundtrack. Finding the breaking point of an image becomes a way to further expand its reality.

 

 To achieve the atmospheric suspense of this film Enrico worked extensively with composer Paolo Gaudio. The soundtrack gives the rhythm to the piece, creating moments of tension, and alternating them with silence to finally resolve into poetic, uplifting notes for the epilogue.

 

The director had the chance to work with Daniel De Vue @A52 for the color grade. Daniel decided to support the project after Enrico showed him an early cut.

Watch the film here:

Je Suis Responsable from Enrico Poli on Vimeo.

Monday, 22 March 2021

Doing Fashion Graduation 2021

Elvira Grau

Although we all live in challengiong times, in particular it can be hard being a student. Despite, there are plently of beautiful examples of reselience of creativity. Doing Fashion Graduation is one that I always look forward to see online, as I haven never had the chance to attend a show. However, this time the video presentation was a perfect way to experience the work of the graduates. 

Filmed at the Kunstmuseum Basel in Switzerland, the Institute of Fashion Design Basel 2021 graduates video invites an exploration of what is to come in fashion, an inspiring projection of creativity during such uninspiring times. 

 

Check out the video, and some images from students' collections below.  

 https://doingfashion.ch/

 Images courtesy of Institute of Fashion Design

Sunday, 21 March 2021

Human Poetics | Polimoda Fashion Movie

Serena Schettino's collection photographed at Galleria Romanelli during the making of Human Poetics

During Milano Fashion Week Women's Collection and for the first time ever, Polimoda presented a short movie featuring 20 collections by Undergraduate in Fashion Design students. Shot in unconvential Florentine locations, the garments created by our young designers are breathing life into a city ready for a brand new Renaissance.  

Polimoda's Human Poetics is a fusion of art, nature and architecture, transporting viewers back to the heart of human creativity and delving into the shapes and lines of a temporarily crestfallen Florence.  

 "This Fashion Movie is about images that blend and overlap, expressing the fears, aspirations, emotions and visions of a brilliant generation of young designers grappling with the aesthetics of a new decade at a fast pace," explains Director Massimiliano Giornetti. "It is a dialogue between heritage, present, future, technology and craftsmanship, binding it all together in un unprecedented metissage and giving life to a unique project that is human-centric and innovative." 

Polimoda shared this experience with Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, uniting people from all over the world with the sensations only fashion is able to convey. 

https://www.polimoda.com/human-poetics-fashion-movie/

Alice Baggio's collection at the Sferisterio

 

Marlou Breuls Creative Studio - Objectification of the body

Marlou Breuls Creative Studio presented interim process results from the ongoing research project

‘Objectification of the body’ during the digital edition of FASHIONCLASH Festival. This was a performative presentation of the process and working aesthetic from the studio. This transparent working method is something that makes the current generation of designers significant in the changes the fashion industry is facing.

Marlou Breuls is a multidisciplinary fashion designer who started her own creative studio in Amsterdam in 2016. She prefers to describe herself as a visual artist rather than a traditional fashion designer. Within her studio she sees the human body as a foundation on which ideas come to life. This results in a sculptural approach in which unconventional use of materials and constructions come together. The will to innovate is always decisive. The studio's handwriting shows avant-garde use of form, craftsmanship, an eye for detail and exaggerated silhouettes. Textiles are one of the means by which they form ideas and fascinations, as sculptors do with stone and clay.

In ‘Objectification of the body’, fashion-related sculptures move in a space where time, textiles and the human body are unnaturally merged, exchanged or duplicated. You walk into a ceremony or ritual, full of human objects that feel like they are transforming. The work plays with the tension between alienation and abjection and is at the same time tactile inviting. The work serves as a guide through a world where the boundaries between fashion, sculpture and the body are completely alienated. A world where there is a tear in the thin tissue that blurs imagination and reality, so that elements of both worlds can merge.

You can follow work Marlou Breuls Creative Studio and proces also on Instagram.

Website

All images by Branko Popovic. 




Thursday, 18 March 2021

Class of 2020 - digital FASHIONCLASH Festival

Atelier Josja Louise

With the Class of 2020 FASHIONCLASH presented a selection of graduation projects of several Dutch fashion & design academies. The selected projects are not a "best of", but a translation of the zeitgeist of this generation.

During the digital edition of FASHIONCLASH Festival audience was guided through the Class of 2020 exhibition and talk by moderator Rolien Zonneveld. The graduates presented the story behind their work and were invited into a dialogue about graduating in times of a pandemic, their future plans and vision on fashion.

Participating designers: Atelier Josja Louise, Carolin Dieler, Charlotte Simons, Hanakin Henriksson, Hailey Kim, Idan Grady, Ilse Kremer, Josephine Malcorps, Katja R., Lara Warson, LINN, Studio Mus Ruijg

More information about the participants: fashionclash.nl

All images by Branko Popovic 

Sunday, 14 March 2021

JUUNISHINEO - NEO Design

NEO Design presented their JUUNISHINEO project within the framework of The Clash House, a new format of FASHIONCLASH Festival that focusses on experimenting with presentation forms. Performance concept is created in collaboration with choreographer Mami Izumi and realised in Belgrade.

NEO Design was founded by Nevena Ivanović in 2014, as a part of a graduate project. With NEO Design, Nevena strives to bring traditional techniques of making clothing and jewelry to a new age in which functionality will benefit from the simplicity inspired tradition. The brand tries to connect the traditions of many different nations with futuristic ideas and rebuilds these in a new way, with a connection between the past and the future. 


The collection ‘JUUNISHINEO - Buddha's farewell dinner’ is inspired by elements from Japanese and East Asian zodiac legends about Buddha's farewell dinner. Zodiacs are very important in the lives of Japanese people - they believe that the zodiac is foretelling a person’s luck and fortune and a lot of people rely on these forecasts in their major decision making varying from where to build their homes, what businesses to establish and even who they can marry. The collection represents a conceptual approach to wedding wear and is semi-recycled out of old, used wedding dresses and tuxedos, where every outfit is corresponding to certain zodiac signs.

Instagram

Photography: Andrea Krželj

Watch the presentation of the collection here:

Friday, 12 March 2021

The Nightmare Disorder - digital FASHIONCLASH Festival

The Nightmare Disorder fashion house presented its debut project within the framework of The Clash House, a new format of FASHIONCLASH Festival that focusses on experimenting with presentation forms. Performance is created in collaboration with choreographer Giovanni Brand. 

The Nightmare Disorder is a fashion house with a desire to bring back the cinematic storytelling aspect of fashion. By using character building as a big part of the design process, they strive for creepy perfection. Starting graduation year at ArtEZ Fashion Design in Arnhem, Benji Nijenhuis and Nemo Cheminée decided not to collaborate. They wanted to develop themselves as individuals first before they started working together. Now it's time to clash both worlds in to something they call ‘The Nightmare Disorder’.

With the main focus on craftsmanship and the reinvention of a classic fashion house, Benji and Nemo use design, photography and styling as a medium to search for the right balance between beauty and anxiety. They want to scare the audience in the best way possible, using Nemo's love for children's films and dreams and Benji's fascination for danger and 50's couture. They have created a selection of characters they want to present to you at their first official campaign release during FASHIONCLASH Festival

More on Instagram

You can watch the show here together with the whole The Clash House show:

Some impressions from the presentation and behind the scenes. 

All images by Branko Popovic. 

Wednesday, 10 March 2021

For Dear Life - Berend Brus

Berend Brus presented his new collection within the framework of The Clash House, a new format of FASHIONCLASH Festival that focusses on experimenting with presentation forms. Performance is created in collaboration with choreographer Giovanni Brand.

Berend Brus is not only a fashion designer. He is a wild hearted explorer that loves to kick against social norms that we are expected to follow. He strives to open up the conversation about unpopular and sensitive conversations subjects in search for connection and igniting social change.

His collection ‘For Dear Life’ is about the dark corners of your consciousness. “Your brain wants to return to these thoughts during moments of mental health weakness. It's about perseverance and starting over after being victorious. To choose life over the paralysis of despondency. Wanting to start with a clean slate but not being able to until the debris laying around is recycled.” With this collection, Berend hopes to further alleviate the stigma around mental health and to give those familiar with this struggle recognition, to make them feel more understood and less lonely. Another goal is to show those who aren’t burdened by these issues what it feels like in a visceral and observable way.


Apart from delving into the topic of mental health, this collection was created with circularity in mind. All of the ‘For Dear Life’ designs are made from up-cycled materials, giving the collection name a double meaning. Some of these materials were delivered by SWAPSHOP, a clothing swap project based in Rotterdam. Other textiles used in this collection are from clothes with deeply emotional undertones. They were worn or slept in by people during their darkest moments, bringing the collection full circle and exemplifying its powerful message.


Instagram
Website

Some impressions from the presentation and behind the scenes.
Hair is created by KEVIN.MURPHY and make-up is created by Art of Colors with use of Inika Organic.
All images by Branko Popovic.


You can watch the show here together with the whole The Clash House show:

Sunday, 7 March 2021

Rena Jansen - digital FASHIONCLASH Festival

Rena Jansen presented her new collection LOVE SICK within the framework of The Clash House, a new format of FASHIONCLASH Festival that focusses on experimenting with presentation forms. She collaborated with Martin Malibu, the singing sensation from West-Friesland.
Performance is created in collaboration with choreographer Mami Izumi.

Rena Jansen is a sustainable designer who graduated in 2018 from the HKU University of the Arts in Utrecht. She worked for designer Walter Van Beirendonck in 2019 and started her label right after that. Rena’s style is bold and colorful, drawing inspiration from surrealism, youth rebellion, childhood nostalgia and her experiences growing up as a millennial. She twists fashion archetypes, creating contradictions that question the world as we know it. The fashion she makes is conceptual, but includes wearable pieces that allow the wearers to express themselves through clothing.

Rena’s upcoming collection ‘Lovesick’ is an ode to young love and the confusion arising from new sensations and experiences. “Love often detaches us from reality, making us feel like we’re walking around with our “head in the clouds”. The collection deals with innocence, coming to terms with your feelings as a teenager and inhabiting a space between dreams and reality. Love can be exhilarating or isolating, depending on our connection to others and how they receive such feelings. ‘Lovesick’ operates as a longing for intimacy and human warmth, in times where physical distancing and fear are everyday rules.”

In collaboration with Martin Malibu, the singing sensation from West-Friesland.

Instagram
Website

You can watch the presentation here:

Some impressions from the presentation and behind the scenes.
Hair is created by KEVIN.MURPHY and make-up is created by Art of Colors with use of Inika Organic

All images by Branko Popovic.

MAARTEN VAN MULKEN - digital FASHIONCLASH Festival

MAARTEN VAN MULKEN presented his new collection within the framework of The Clash House, a new format of FASHIONCLASH Festival that focusses on experimenting with presentation forms.

Performance is created in collaboration with choreographer Giovanni Brand.


MAARTEN VAN MULKEN is a fashion designer and label based in The Netherlands. With a main focus on creating womenswear collections, Maarten has been working on many side projects variating from menswear, performances and objects. His collections are based on concepts that are meant to disrupt normal life, referring to different fields within art and combining them with social issues nowadays.

‘UNKNOWN ENTRY EVENT’ is a collection that challenges the fashion standards and normativity we experience as individuals. It crosses boundaries between the old couture, the fast-fashion industry, the absurdities we experience in normal live and the questions that come with it. “What is happening? What did already happen? And more important; what will come next? Can we anticipate on this event or will it be out of our hands and we just have to sit back and watch?” The collection is about inner acceptations, a struggle, and empowerment to all these absurdities coming our way and how we deal with them.

You can watch the show here together with the whole The Clash House show:

Instagram
Website

Some impressions from the presentation and behind the scenes.
Hair is created by KEVIN.MURPHY and make-up is created by Art of Colors with use of Inika Organic.
All images by Branko Popovic.

Wednesday, 3 March 2021

Peach Tree, Ambiguous

Peach Tree, Ambiguous, the speculative department-store is an online exhibition by created by designer Anouk van Klaveren.

Peach Tree, Ambiguous
 is a fictional brand with a deliberate ‘yes-man’ work-ethos. Embracing the deranged logic of today’s marketing- and communications cultus, the brand fully outsourced its products’ raison d’être by hiring an international team of sales experts, content creators and e-commerce models.

Simulating a tribalized department-store, the exhibition shows a wide range of purposefully advertized objects, all blurring the thin line between need and wanting; cause and effect; the voyeur and the exhibitionist. Doused within the realm of commercialized daydreams, Van Klaveren portrays today’s e-environment and its inherent consumer myths.

In addition to the exhibition, a mini-publication about the project is created. It offers an insight into Anouk van Klaveren's working method; includes a text written by Femke de Vries and is designed by Ruben Verkuylen. 

Take a look at the project: www.peachtreeambiguous.com

 


Anouk is co-founder of collective Das Leben am Haverkamp. Her work has been shown at Centraal Museum, Zeeuws Museum, Salone del Mobile and at the International Fashion Showcase London.

www.anoukvanklaveren.com
www.daslebenamhaverkamp.com

PAERS - digital FASHIONCLASH Festival

PAERS is a menswear label by Ashley Luypaers that reflects upon the notions of self-expression and identity in relation to contemporary men's fashion. Inspired by the limitation of traditionally and culturally informed ideas on masculinity, PAERS designs focus on creating more freedom for male styling.

The ‘OH GOD IT'S DAVID’ capsule collection continues where PAERS’ last collection ended: the manifestation of self-expression within menswear. The collection’s title refers to the so-called ‘ideal’ portrait of men, starting from ancient Greek statues to Michelangelo’s vision of the perfect man ‘David’. The collection strives both to create a space for men where they can feel free from the pressure to abide by long standing traditions and norms in their appearances, as well as to contribute to a general shift in social ideas of gender to change toxic gender standards.

Instagram
Website

TEUN - FASHIONCLASH Festival

TEUN is brand by designer Teun Seuren who is focused on showcasing collections with a message. Within his collections, he often questions the world around us and plays with different perspectives of masculinity and femininity. TEUN profiles himself as a designer with a fresh perspective, one which blurs the lines of gender and reveals a diverse world.

“Stay at home” - can be a metaphor for how we, the flamboyant, the people of color, and everyone that does not fit the white cis hyper-masculine life are forced to restrain ourselves. As a society we are currently feeling more than ever how oppressive it is to be stripped from our freedom. Even in this situation though, we are still lucky that this is just temporary. However, imagine if your life felt like you had to "stay at home", because society doesn't see you as you are, and tries to define the limits of the space where you can be yourself.”

Instagram
Website

All images by Branko Popovic

Tuesday, 2 March 2021

STUDIO | HEEY - FASHIONCLASH Festival digital edition

Helène Klein is a Maastricht based visual artist working under the name STUDIO | HEEY, a bold colorful brand that focusses on expressing oneself through jewellery, apparel and wearable art. STUDIO | HEEY is playful while lightly addressing modern day issues and questions and aims to be fun and joyful with a touch of seriousness.

“Bitch. Female. Male. Snake. Demon: these words can be viewed in various ways. The way we view them is often defined by our cultural framework, our background and heritage. Symbols that are regarded in one culture as evil, are considered empowering in another. These words and symbols hold meaning, but they do not define us or capture all that we are.” In the series ‘The One and ONI’, STUDIO | HEEY invites you to play with these words and symbols. Not diminishing them in their cultural value, but re-experiencing them. “Be bold, let's play & be you”

Instagram
Website

All images by Branko Popovic

Monday, 1 March 2021

MICHI'M X MAXNIEREISEL - FASHIONCLASH Festival

MICHI'M X MAXNIEREISEL is a collaboration between Michelle Cornelissen and Max Niereisel who graduated from Maastricht Institute of Arts in 2019. They share the same vision of what fashion should become if worn by an individual, investigating in different identities that are linked together within pop-culture.

“In uncertain times we stick to the boxes and rules in society. We go back to our stereotypes, the already known. We hold on to norms and values that are created according to age-old beliefs. These self-made identities become our own new norms and values, in accordance with the need to create our own beliefs. The believer. The dreamer, the extreme; these post-modern lives exists through the immortal. It’s time to start again.” In ‘Baby you’d kill me if I wasn’t already death’ MICHI'M X MAXNIEREISEL explore and play with self-made identities and seek the fine lines between reality and fantasy.

Instagram Max
Instagram Michelle

All images by Branko Popovic

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